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Post by Dirty_Denim on Oct 29, 2014 16:13:19 GMT -6
they look similar to the G brown organic hemps  Same selvedge id right. Look how they made the outerseam , looks pretty clean like that. I want the G hemps If these are in fact the same denim as G's |
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Post by ickes on Oct 29, 2014 16:38:04 GMT -6
It is the same ID. I had the brown organic hemps for about two days and returned them. I didn't care for them at all. The slubbiness was way too intense for my liking.
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Post by wisdom on Oct 29, 2014 17:04:43 GMT -6
I think there's a good chance these are legitimately dyed with Kakishibu. I received the Sugar Canes which are confirmed to be dyed with Kakishibu from the @untucked Gentleman earlier this week and the color and texture is very similar.
Additionally, I purchased some fabric from someone I believe is the former owner of Guns 'n Money denim. This denim is identical to Gustin's Downtown Browns and is, according to the individual I purchased from, dyed in Kakishibu. Comparing the Sugar Canes to the DTB's, I can confirm that the characteristics of the brown, the dye adherence, the unique variegation in color, and even the smell are close enough, to me, to seem indistinguishable.
The thing giving me pause about saying with certainty that the DTBs are Kakishibu is that Gustin doesn't miss opportunities to point out any special feature of anything, and they make no mention of this when they tout the DTBs. According to the individual I worked with, he knows of a denim supplier in California that sells the identical fabric to what he sold me (Gustin's DTB) and only sells them as brown denim.
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Post by wisdom on Oct 29, 2014 17:11:44 GMT -6
Hi Wisdom, you might need to check your inner engineer at the door when using kakishibu. Basically, it is a living, breathing, natural substance and (gee, kind of like us), isn't totally predictable or controllable. I've recorded the specifics of dye sessions - temp., humidity, cloud cover, wind, day, date, time, location, etc. and there is NO common thread running through the purple-ish results. The -ish part is important here. It's not screaming royal purple - more darker, black-y with purple overtones. The items I've gotten the purple-ish outcomes on tend to be flat constructed (scarves and bandanas) and smooth weave, like muslin or habotai silk. I've just accepted that when I do get the purple-y color it is a Gift of the Gods and I'm happy. When I don't get the purple-y, I get lovely colors and I'm happy. Very interesting, kakishibuchris.. does modified Kakishibu maintain the same characteristics as the orangey-brown version, except the color? For instance, if I do a batch modified with iron (how do you do this, anyway?) and dye something black, if I mask part of it in the sun, will the part exposed "develop" in to a darker color than the masked portion? I'm thinking of dying part of a silk scarf with a standard solution and the other part with an iron modified solution, masking the whole thing with a random assortment of Gingko leaves, and seeing how it all comes out. |
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Post by Deleted on Oct 29, 2014 18:29:56 GMT -6
Google Hartford Denim Co. and ask them. That's their leather patch on the back. They make some great jeans, and will make ANYTHING you want from the looks of their IG
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Post by Dirty_Denim on Oct 29, 2014 18:52:02 GMT -6
Google Hartford Denim Co. and ask them. That's their leather patch on the back. They make some great jeans, and will make ANYTHING you want from the looks of their IG Yes I saw them on RAWR . U are very good my man |
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Post by Deleted on Oct 29, 2014 19:21:13 GMT -6
Google Hartford Denim Co. and ask them. That's their leather patch on the back. They make some great jeans, and will make ANYTHING you want from the looks of their IG Yes I saw them on RAWR . U are very good my man I'm not GQ editorial writer level, but I'm fairly knowledgeable about many things in the fashion world. Mostly from reading and conversations, but I'm building my hands-on knowledge base now that I have a well paying job where I can afford to but what I want and not particularly have to worry about over spending. But, you sir are the man. Seriously, no sh!t I was thinking last week "How awesome would it be to just up and go to the States and work for Roman.....". Like seriously, that was really my train of thought! Contact Roman; Buy a ticket; Make jeans; Fade jeans; Take selfies |
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Post by Dirty_Denim on Oct 29, 2014 19:44:58 GMT -6
TY u my man it was my wife who really gave me the ok to do it because of how much I speak about denim. Believe it or not my degree is in Fashion Buying & merchandising. I stood in the business for maybe 6 years but got out to make more money & regretted it ever since (Damn dreams of being a millionaire got in the way of what I was good at). My backround in fashion was in the high fashion part of the game. My 1st job was for Armani actually selling direct to the consumer in a store & then I worked for Hugo Boss in their showroom selling direct to the buyers of Bloomingdales & whom ever else carried Hugo Boss. That was a great job because I also got to style people for the awards shows including Kelsey Grammer (true story). After that I got a job working in a showroom but that was all womans clothing for a company called The Carlisle Collection. Working for brands like that was cool but it wasnt my personality & I found myself hating the people around me. I grew up reading GQ with dreams of being a model (another true story). Anyway I have been waiting for a chance to get back into it but it needed to be something like this where everything is small enough things could get done quickly without any politics of 100 people above you.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 29, 2014 20:04:03 GMT -6
TY u my man it was my wife who really gave me the ok to do it because of how much I speak about denim. Believe it or not my degree is in Fashion Buying & merchandising. I stood in the business for maybe 6 years but got out to make more money & regretted it ever since (Damn dreams of being a millionaire got in the way of what I was good at). My backround in fashion was in the high fashion part of the game. My 1st job was for Armani actually selling direct to the consumer in a store & then I worked for Hugo Boss in their showroom selling direct to the buyers of Bloomingdales & whom ever else carried Hugo Boss. That was a great job because I also got to style people for the awards shows including Kelsey Grammer (true story). After that I got a job working in a showroom but that was all womans clothing for a company called The Carlisle Collection. Working for brands like that was cool but it wasnt my personality & I found myself hating the people around me. I grew up reading GQ with dreams of being a model (another true story). Anyway I have been waiting for a chance to get back into it but it needed to be something like this where everything is small enough things could get done quickly without any politics of 100 people above you. I'm going to PM you brah. I don't want to ramble off from the thread topic |
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Post by Deleted on Oct 29, 2014 20:27:06 GMT -6
TY u my man it was my wife who really gave me the ok to do it because of how much I speak about denim. Believe it or not my degree is in Fashion Buying & merchandising. I stood in the business for maybe 6 years but got out to make more money & regretted it ever since (Damn dreams of being a millionaire got in the way of what I was good at). My backround in fashion was in the high fashion part of the game. My 1st job was for Armani actually selling direct to the consumer in a store & then I worked for Hugo Boss in their showroom selling direct to the buyers of Bloomingdales & whom ever else carried Hugo Boss. That was a great job because I also got to style people for the awards shows including Kelsey Grammer (true story). After that I got a job working in a showroom but that was all womans clothing for a company called The Carlisle Collection. Working for brands like that was cool but it wasnt my personality & I found myself hating the people around me. I grew up reading GQ with dreams of being a model (another true story). Anyway I have been waiting for a chance to get back into it but it needed to be something like this where everything is small enough things could get done quickly without any politics of 100 people above you. I was a retail salesperson at Armani, Issey Miyake and Louis Vuitton after I graduated high school in Asia back in the 80's. I agree with you that after you have a taste of high fashion, you will forever appreciate the beaty of clothing. Unfortunately for me is after I moved to US, I lost the sense of fashion since people really are not into it in US. I also cannot afford shit anymore since I have a family. |
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Post by Dirty_Denim on Oct 29, 2014 20:31:57 GMT -6
Aint that the truth. Before my daughter I was buying Iron Heart like it was the Gap & now I look for stuff that looks like IH lol
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Post by Dirty_Denim on Oct 29, 2014 20:37:26 GMT -6
TY u my man it was my wife who really gave me the ok to do it because of how much I speak about denim. Believe it or not my degree is in Fashion Buying & merchandising. I stood in the business for maybe 6 years but got out to make more money & regretted it ever since (Damn dreams of being a millionaire got in the way of what I was good at). My backround in fashion was in the high fashion part of the game. My 1st job was for Armani actually selling direct to the consumer in a store & then I worked for Hugo Boss in their showroom selling direct to the buyers of Bloomingdales & whom ever else carried Hugo Boss. That was a great job because I also got to style people for the awards shows including Kelsey Grammer (true story). After that I got a job working in a showroom but that was all womans clothing for a company called The Carlisle Collection. Working for brands like that was cool but it wasnt my personality & I found myself hating the people around me. I grew up reading GQ with dreams of being a model (another true story). Anyway I have been waiting for a chance to get back into it but it needed to be something like this where everything is small enough things could get done quickly without any politics of 100 people above you. I was a retail salesperson at Armani, Issey Miyake and Louis Vuitton after I graduated high school in Asia back in the 80's. I agree with you that after you have a taste of high fashion, you will forever appreciate the beaty of clothing. Unfortunately for me is after I moved to US, I lost the sense of fashion since people really are not into it in US. I also cannot afford shit anymore since I have a family. Armani was a retail job for me but it was my 1st taste of real style 7 the type of person that bought it. I think I was maybe 21 or something & remember feeling like I made it LOL |
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Post by Deleted on Oct 29, 2014 20:54:30 GMT -6
I was a retail salesperson at Armani, Issey Miyake and Louis Vuitton after I graduated high school in Asia back in the 80's. I agree with you that after you have a taste of high fashion, you will forever appreciate the beaty of clothing. Unfortunately for me is after I moved to US, I lost the sense of fashion since people really are not into it in US. I also cannot afford shit anymore since I have a family. Armani was a retail job for me but it was my 1st taste of real style 7 the type of person that bought it. I think I was maybe 21 or something & remember feeling like I made it LOL Ha... I know what you meant. I got paid once a month back in the days and I spent 95% of my paycheck before the end of the first week on clothes. I was wearing Yohji Yamamoto and Comme Des Garcons but I can only afford to take my ex-gf to fast food places or McDonald.... she wasn't happy and still reminded me every time I see her these days after 20+ years .... women have LONGGGG memories especially bad one.... hehe. |
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Post by Derek G on Oct 29, 2014 20:55:14 GMT -6
I'm really interested in this kakishibu dying. In particular, the adding of other elements to change the color. If any of you guys decide to experiment with the dye this way, please post up your findings. I'd appreciate it  and a big thanks to chris for her input and education on this subject LOL...off topic, I think it's a residual effect of the time we spend/spent on the G board  |
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Post by kakishibuchris on Nov 2, 2014 6:11:42 GMT -6
Howdy. Yes, modified kakishibu will maintain the same characteristics. However, I would establish your patterns of light and dark before using a modifier. The contrasts between light and dark will have greater contrast if done before modification. The light/dark patterns will be established (permanently) by the time the kakishibu is dry.  From that point forward, they will both continue to darken and mature at the same rate. The light parts will never catch up with the dark parts. It is what it is. After modification, the tannin is still there, although modified. It will continue to darken, just not as dramatically.  In the above picture, the "masked" parts are the light, the dark were exposed. In this case, the cloth (silk) was randomly scrunched up. Logically, you'd think the darker areas would have been the lower areas (or troughs) because kakishibu is liquid and gravity tends to pull liquid down. But, this is kakishibu. Not always logical. The dark parts will be the high spots as that is what is exposed to the light.  This was another silk scarf that was folded, then an object (in this case, my high-tech salsa jar lid) clamped, then dipped in kakishibu, allowed to dry, then the clamps and object removed. Again, to achieve maximum contrast, I would create the light/dark areas first, then modify. I 'm thinking of dying part of a silk scarf with a standard solution and the other part with an iron modified solution, masking the whole thing with a random assortment of Gingko leaves, and seeing how it all comes out.Hopefully, I can save you some grief by sharing my "leaf masking" adventure. I decided to create a leaf pattern on a scarf by using some lovely maple leaves from the tree in our yard. I picked them, dipped my scarf in kakishibu, placed the leaves on the scarf and eagerly waited. The sun, being what it is and leaves, being what they are, dried the leaves and curled the edges before I could get a nice crisp image to form. I had vague, leaf-ish shapes. on the scarf. So, being the resourceful lass I am, next go-round, I put the flat, squashed florist marbles on the pointy ends of the leaf to hold them flat long enough to get an image. Leaves, being translucent, picked up the blocked sunlight areas of the marbles. I had crisper leaf images, but they had big, round blobs of dark on them. Not to give up easily, next verse involved putting the leaves on a wet, kakishibu dyed scarf, then placing a piece of plexiglass over the whole lot. No fuzzy edges, no dark blobs. However.....you knew there'd be one of those.... I'd created a mini-green house with LOTS of moisture and the whole thing sweat, then dripped back down on the scarf. I did have crisp edges. I did not have dark blobs. But, I did have very irregular color all around the leaves that just really didn't add anything to the design. Chalking it up to a massive learning experience, my solution has been to use fake leaves...specifically, opaque cut-outs of leaves. I either make them out of empty cereal boxes or use rubber leaves that I got from an art supply place that are used for making rubbings on paper. Perhaps leaves off of silk flower would work. Haven't tried that yet. I reached my maximum for pictures for this post, but will put some more scarf pictures up just so you can get a visual on what things look like. Cheers, Chris |
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Post by kakishibuchris on Nov 2, 2014 6:22:17 GMT -6
Here's some more scarf pictures.  This is devore - a velvet burn-out technique (no, I didn't do the burnout. I buy them as white scarves with the pattern already done). Middle is straight kakishbu, left is bicarbonate of soda, right is bicarb and iron. Another modified/unmodified example.  ...and yet more examples.  So, just some visual food for thought. Cheers, Chris |
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Post by Deleted on Nov 2, 2014 21:16:52 GMT -6
Chris, those are great examples, thanks for the side by side views. The pictures tell the story really well.
I realize how little I know when I look at these....
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Post by Deleted on Nov 2, 2014 21:24:59 GMT -6
Chris, those are great examples, thanks for the side by side views. The pictures tell the story really well. I realize how little I know when I look at these.... I am really thinking to make one jacket and vest in Natural selvedge from Lawless and have them dye with Kakishibu.... Less than $100 for both.... |
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Post by Mattbert on Nov 3, 2014 8:24:41 GMT -6
I am blown away by some of those examples of the modified kakishibu dye results. Stunning stuff.
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Post by kakishibuchris on Nov 3, 2014 15:31:01 GMT -6
Thought it would make it easier to visualize your concepts and ideas if you actually had pictures of what the stuff does. Should have posted pics earlier, but I'm such a techno-idiot, it takes me forever to figure out how do do things like that.
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Post by stinky on Nov 26, 2014 11:34:01 GMT -6
Hey @stevekas: did your fimas (fire + pima) shrink at all when you did this? I'm worried that I won't be able to get my calves in my fimas if they shrink.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 26, 2014 13:27:25 GMT -6
Hey @stevekas: did your fimas (fire + pima) shrink at all when you did this? I'm worried that I won't be able to get my calves in my fimash if they shrink. Hey Stinky, quick response here from the phone....my pimas had been hot soaked in the tub with detergent once after about 45 days of wear. They shrunk at that time, the waist lost an inch (was 33.5 shrunk to 32.5 res stretched to 33.5) which I stretched back out in a few wears. The inseam lost a solid 1.5 inches (was 36 now 34.5) which was good for me. Kakishibu was the second soak so no additional loss on inseam and waist did the same shrink then re stretch cycle as the hot soak. Caveat- kakishibu makes things feel crackly and stiff (not crisp like starch). Anyway this created a greater illusion of stretch. A few wears and another soak and all was back to pima fire softness....mostly. Lastly.....i flippin love them now |
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Post by stinky on Nov 26, 2014 14:25:47 GMT -6
oooh. must do cold soak only then. calves are TIGHT already. I normally wear 34 slim, but I got these in 33 slim off eBay, so they are already a little undersized.
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Post by jackgordon on Jan 27, 2015 7:28:52 GMT -6
I just read this whole thread. I love it. I think a natural work shirt dunked in this magical stuff is just what I need.
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Post by wisdom on Jan 28, 2015 5:20:37 GMT -6
I just read this whole thread. I love it. I think a natural work shirt dunked in this magical stuff is just what I need. ..as long as you post pics and keep us in the loop |
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