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Post by Deleted on Oct 20, 2014 8:19:31 GMT -6
Guys, I'd get 50 grams of powder from Chris at kakishibui.com. The powder is cheaper on shipping and works well, it makes 1L of liquid kakishibu (easy mix with water) which is about perfect for double dipping jeans or a trucker.
UnTucked, I know you are overseas from this North American supplier so maybe you could get something local more easily? BTW I have some Otter Wax around here someplace and I had the same thought about waxing my jeans, it seems like a great combo. I think I'm going to leave them alone for now though, have some other projects in mind for the wax. Post up if you do it!
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Post by wisdom on Oct 20, 2014 8:26:01 GMT -6
Guys, I'd get 50 grams of powder from Chris at kakishibui.com. The powder is cheaper on shipping and works well, it makes 1L of liquid kakishibu (easy mix with water) which is about perfect for double dipping jeans or a trucker. UnTucked, I know you are overseas from this North American supplier so maybe you could get something local more easily? BTW I have some Otter Wax ling around and I had the same thought about waxing my jeans, it seems like a great combo. I think I'm going to leave them alone for now though, have some other projects in mind for the wax. Post up if you do it! To mix the stuff up, I'd use a sealable container and shake the powder and water up.. if you get a clump of powder on your fabric, it'll leave a dark spot. I've had some success smoothing the color out with water, but if you just get the mixture right, you can avoid the hassle. It also works if you stuff your article in whatever container you have and shake that up, too. I didn't do jeans, so I'm not sure how it'll work with a 5g pail, but it works pretty good with a few liters.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 20, 2014 8:39:46 GMT -6
BTW Here is a pic of the combs on m jeans after a week of wear. Whiskers are coming in too but just snapped this pic. Pretty cool, I wasn't expecting anything to happen so quickly. Starting ths week I'm wearing some PBJ XX 012s I just received after a pre order/fade contest thing from last summer so the kakishibu jeans will now go into occasional rotation and I'm going to try to get some serious fades on the 012's. One last note, I did two soaks in cold water before wearing these much, it took the extra pigment out and reduced the scent of the kakishibu to almost nothing. It's totally gone after a week of wear. It's not a bad scent, just not something you want to walk around smelling like....."fermented"
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Post by Deleted on Oct 20, 2014 8:41:53 GMT -6
Guys, I'd get 50 grams of powder from Chris at kakishibui.com. The powder is cheaper on shipping and works well, it makes 1L of liquid kakishibu (easy mix with water) which is about perfect for double dipping jeans or a trucker. UnTucked, I know you are overseas from this North American supplier so maybe you could get something local more easily? BTW I have some Otter Wax ling around and I had the same thought about waxing my jeans, it seems like a great combo. I think I'm going to leave them alone for now though, have some other projects in mind for the wax. Post up if you do it! To mix the stuff up, I'd use a sealable container and shake the powder and water up.. if you get a clump of powder on your fabric, it'll leave a dark spot. I've had some success smoothing the color out with water, but if you just get the mixture right, you can avoid the hassle. It also works if you stuff your article in whatever container you have and shake that up, too. I didn't do jeans, so I'm not sure how it'll work with a 5g pail, but it works pretty good with a few liters. Good idea on the shaking in a container. I mixed mine in a plastic bin and noticed some clumps. I ended up getting a second plastic bin and running the mixture through a fine kitchen strainer, pouring between the two bins. Your method sounds much better!
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Post by Deleted on Oct 20, 2014 10:02:09 GMT -6
Guys, I'd get 50 grams of powder from Chris at kakishibui.com. The powder is cheaper on shipping and works well, it makes 1L of liquid kakishibu (easy mix with water) which is about perfect for double dipping jeans or a trucker. UnTucked, I know you are overseas from this North American supplier so maybe you could get something local more easily? BTW I have some Otter Wax around here someplace and I had the same thought about waxing my jeans, it seems like a great combo. I think I'm going to leave them alone for now though, have some other projects in mind for the wax. Post up if you do it! are you thinking of the wax as more of an aesthetic/textural addition, or for weather resistance? is the water repellency from the kakishibu negligible?
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Post by Deleted on Oct 20, 2014 11:21:45 GMT -6
Well, for me it would be more asthetic and "feel" really. I have a waxed canvas jacket in dark oak from Iron and Resin that I love and most of that is based on the feel of the jackets fabric. I admit from a functionality standpoint it is overkill though. It's interesting how water beads up on the jeans already. Not water proof but definitely water resistant.
Just seems like a killer look is possible. I hope UnTucked tries this on his trucker. I'm thinking it would be cool but I like my jeans so much as is that I'm going to just wear them and see how they age.
This stuff is cool.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 20, 2014 11:26:58 GMT -6
it's really inspiring me to give it a go, but i may wait until spring. the project space i'm building out (and prepping to winterize) will be pretty enclosed for the season.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 21, 2014 21:40:50 GMT -6
How do I purchase the powder through her website? I'm in here under the products link and don't see a way to add to a basket or anything
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Post by exophobe on Oct 21, 2014 22:06:40 GMT -6
Steve, did the Pimas soften up again or have you even been back to them since you dyed them?
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Post by matt on Oct 21, 2014 22:57:25 GMT -6
Probably restating the obvious, but thank you again Steve for the insight from this project - I'm tempted to experiment with my Pima's or any of my denim that has the character to take on some color "enhancements".
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Post by exophobe on Oct 21, 2014 23:37:19 GMT -6
How do I purchase the powder through her website? I'm in here under the products link and don't see a way to add to a basket or anything Looks like you do it via email: E-mail: Orders or questions to chris@kakishibui.com Your order will be confirmed by e-mail so you will know that the order was received and is being processed. Kakishibui does not open any attachments so do not use an attachment to place an order.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 23, 2014 8:14:04 GMT -6
Steve, did the Pimas soften up again or have you even been back to them since you dyed them? They are still the softest pair of jeans I have except for really broken in stuff but they are "slicker" feeling now. No sheen just less like pajamas.
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Post by wisdom on Oct 23, 2014 10:14:05 GMT -6
Steve, did the Pimas soften up again or have you even been back to them since you dyed them? They are still the softest pair of jeans I have except for really broken in stuff but they are "slicker" feeling now. No sheen just less like pajamas. I wonder how those GreyxWhites that dropped today might take Kakishibu.. tempted.
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Post by matt on Oct 23, 2014 10:14:34 GMT -6
With the look of the Pimas, I think a scaled/watered down approach could look really good on a chambray shirt (unless it's more of an all or nothing approach with this dying technique).
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Post by wisdom on Oct 24, 2014 13:35:44 GMT -6
Just made an offer on the Loomstates on the Gustin B/S/T.. I'm gonna do the soak with the two bottles of Kakishibu I got from Chris at Kakishibui. Looking forward to a heavier pair of Kakishibu treated denim!
Steve - How'd you dry your Cone Pima Fire's? Did you hang 'em up, or did you dry 'em flat?
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Post by Deleted on Oct 25, 2014 10:24:26 GMT -6
Hi Wisdom,
The Pimas were treated just as the naturals except for only getting one rather minimal soak. As far as hanging them, I used the same method, pierced the selvege and ran a cord through the cuffs, then another through the belt loops. You can tell when it's time to flip the jeans becasue the upper half will become "flat sheened"or dry while the lower, where all the kakishibu has run down to is still "wet" looking or slick. Flip, repeat, flip, repeat. You'll figure it out based on temperature etc, I think it was about every 5 minutes for mine but it was about 85 degrees out.
Steve
PS Loomstates will look AWESOME
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Post by Deleted on Oct 25, 2014 10:26:24 GMT -6
With the look of the Pimas, I think a scaled/watered down approach could look really good on a chambray shirt (unless it's more of an all or nothing approach with this dying technique). Been thinking this myself....
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Post by kakishibuchris on Oct 25, 2014 21:10:43 GMT -6
Chris here....I wrote a nice, long post last night, hit reply and it's not here. Went out into the ether, I guess. So, here it is again. Some thoughts in response to several of the posts. Regarding mixing the powder - I'd recommend mixing it the night before you are going to use it. Most of the lumps will dissolve during that time. Another alternative is to mix it in a bowl or basin and whisk the powder in as you gradually pour it. Yet another alternative is to use a funnel and pour the water and powder into an empty gallon milk jug, cap it, then shake the beejeebers out of it. Regardless of which mixing method used, ALWAYS pour it through a strainer before using. Then you can catch any recalcitrant lumps before they land on your garment and make a dark spot.
In regards to starting with a wet or dry garment - pros and cons to either approach. A damp cloth will take up the kakishibu more easily and penetrate into the center of the fibers a little more readily. However, the color will be lighter than applying kakishibu to a dry cloth. After starting with a damp cloth, subsequent dips in kakishibu do not need to be pre-wetted. Another drawback to dyeing damp is it is impossible to get the garment uniformly damp. Any areas with more moisture will be a lighter color. There is greater possibilities of large areas of irregularity in color. One hazard of dyeing a dry garment is it may still have some residue from the manufacturing process. This, too, will result in uneven color. The possibility of this can be lessened with a presoak (being careful not to crumple, crease and fold during the presoak - those lines will show up in the kakishibu, so forget the spin cycle). Another potential hazard with dry cloth is the formation of a "holiday". This happens when an air bubble settles on the surface and prevents the kakishibu from touching the cloth. The bubble dries, gets crushed and you have a little white spot. Eliminate this by very careful examination upon removal from the kakishibu. If you find one of these areas, pick up some liquid kakishibu and gently rub it on that rascally spot.
Have any of you explored modifiers? There are two main modifiers - iron and bicarbonate of soda (regular kitchen baking soda). The chemical make up of the modifiers react with the tannin to alter the color. Iron produces grey to black, giving a look similar to the black-ish pair of jeans pictured earlier in this thread. You need to be careful of the concentration, though, as iron does eventually degrade fibers. Not to worry, most of the degradation would be a problem for whoever inherits your jeans. Bicarbonate of soda will produce a more brown-brown. It also acts as a fabric softener, making the cloth softer and more pliable right out of the modifier bath. Both modifiers are applied after the kakishibu has completely dried.
And whoever mentioned patience....Yep. This is not an instant results thing. That whole line of "Good things come to those who wait", is true. Only in this case, it is "Good Color".
Just a few more things to consider... Cheers, Chris
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Post by wisdom on Oct 26, 2014 7:26:10 GMT -6
Have any of you explored modifiers? There are two main modifiers - iron and bicarbonate of soda (regular kitchen baking soda). The chemical make up of the modifiers react with the tannin to alter the color. Iron produces grey to black, giving a look similar to the black-ish pair of jeans pictured earlier in this thread. You need to be careful of the concentration, though, as iron does eventually degrade fibers. Not to worry, most of the degradation would be a problem for whoever inherits your jeans. Bicarbonate of soda will produce a more brown-brown. It also acts as a fabric softener, making the cloth softer and more pliable right out of the modifier bath. Both modifiers are applied after the kakishibu has completely dried. I read in one of your write-ups somewhere that it's possible to get a purple color with iron, too? Is there a trick to this? I'm an engineer, so tend to believe there's a way to ensure a particular outcome if the proper parameters are controlled. I think this would look pretty cool on a pair of jeans with a nice open-weave.
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Post by Deleted on Oct 27, 2014 12:23:20 GMT -6
Someone should watch this Natural Tellason jacket (sz L) on Ebay. It's at $4.99 now, but I'm sure it'll creep up substantially as it draws to an end in 6 days. It would be a great candidate for a Kakishibu treatment if the price doesn't go too high. I'd consider it if it was my size.
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Post by wisdom on Oct 27, 2014 13:35:49 GMT -6
Hey, @stevekas .. What're your impressions of the naturals and fires, now that you've had 'em treated with Kakishibu for awhile?
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Post by Deleted on Oct 28, 2014 13:14:20 GMT -6
Hey, @stevekas .. What're your impressions of the naturals and fires, now that you've had 'em treated with Kakishibu for awhile? Naturals: Awesome. It's like a brown version of indigo in that it fades in wear points and creases. The crinkly feeling (different from denim "crisp") has largely subsided and these are back to feeling almost like regular denim. The uneveness of the Kakishibu is really a great feature to me but for some, I think a uniform fabric made into jeans after dipping would be better. These are quite varied. If I had to make a comparison, they are like a pair of canvas work pants that fade like denim and have an uneven base color. It's not distracting or anything, think of something along the lines of the way waxed canvas wears. Highly recommended if you want something totally one off. You could buy 5 pairs of naturals, dip them all in the same vat and you'll get slightly different looks on all five pairs. Fires: Also awesome and possibly more general appeal. These look like classic beige weft jeans with an extra bit of slubby streak. The streaks were just past the "loud" point on the visual scale for me before. I liked them, just not enough to wear all the time. Now, the streaks have an antique look, downplayed a bit. Its quite beautiful really. Neither pair has changed appreciably since my last pics as I'm in the second week of trying to kill...er...break in some PBJ's for a fade contest so the G's are on the rack. Thing is I take a long term perspective with my jeans. I'll pick a pair to beat up for 6 months or so 5-6 days a week, get them in good early/mid fade condition and then rack them for occasional wear. I can't do the daily rotation thing as I don't get the fades I want and on the other end of the scale, I can't wear the same pants for two years, I'd get bored. I'd recommend anyone interested in doing this should go for it. If nothing else it's a really unique project and there are a ton of other applications (current and historical) for this method of fabric coloring. Also, if you are into history at all, the history of the process is fascinating.
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Post by kakishibuchris on Oct 28, 2014 20:35:30 GMT -6
Hi Wisdom, you might need to check your inner engineer at the door when using kakishibu. Basically, it is a living, breathing, natural substance and (gee, kind of like us), isn't totally predictable or controllable. I've recorded the specifics of dye sessions - temp., humidity, cloud cover, wind, day, date, time, location, etc. and there is NO common thread running through the purple-ish results. The -ish part is important here. It's not screaming royal purple - more darker, black-y with purple overtones. The items I've gotten the purple-ish outcomes on tend to be flat constructed (scarves and bandanas) and smooth weave, like muslin or habotai silk. I've just accepted that when I do get the purple-y color it is a Gift of the Gods and I'm happy. When I don't get the purple-y, I get lovely colors and I'm happy.
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Post by Dirty_Denim on Oct 29, 2014 15:23:53 GMT -6
Anyone know what these are? I feel like i have seen the tag but just cant remember where. Arent they beautiful. The seller says they are persimmon dyed
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Post by ickes on Oct 29, 2014 15:27:35 GMT -6
they look similar to the G brown organic hemps
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