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Post by usctroll on Dec 4, 2014 9:29:47 GMT -6
I am very interested to learn about the 12oz especially compared to fabric used by the N&F. The N&F duck is 10 oz and feels pretty good if not particularly heavy. The Carhartt WIP 12oz selvedge has something of a sheen and stretch to it despite being labeled 100% cotton and doesn't feel as substantial as the Carhartt 12oz used on their double knee pants.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 4, 2014 9:48:23 GMT -6
I am very interested to learn about the 12oz especially compared to fabric used by the N&F. The N&F duck is 10 oz and feels pretty good if not particularly heavy. The Carhartt WIP 12oz selvedge has something of a sheen and stretch to it despite being labeled 100% cotton and doesn't feel as substantial as the Carhartt 12oz used on their double knee pants. Thanks. I am wondering is Carhartt 12oz will be the same as the one used by Ciano.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 4, 2014 10:19:43 GMT -6
28 and 37 oz! I'm in. cianofarmer is the binding color customizable? sorry the binding is not customizable...we use a cotton twill and the only color in stock is off white and black...I can get a custom color but i have to order 50k yards...it would be smaller quantity if i order it overseas but we buy it from a supplier in NC..ALL USA Just having black as an option is great.
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Post by davelewis on Dec 4, 2014 10:37:39 GMT -6
The N&F duck is 10 oz and feels pretty good if not particularly heavy. The Carhartt WIP 12oz selvedge has something of a sheen and stretch to it despite being labeled 100% cotton and doesn't feel as substantial as the Carhartt 12oz used on their double knee pants. Thanks. I am wondering is Carhartt 12oz will be the same as the one used by Ciano. Actually, your question peaked my interest, and I put in a call to a product specialist at Carhartt, and she didn't tell me what mill it comes from, but confirmed it is sourced in the US. Ciano gets theirs from Mt. Vernon Mills, so it possibly could be the same.
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Post by usctroll on Dec 4, 2014 10:45:31 GMT -6
Are there any other companies milling duck canvas in the US? I've only ever seen Cone and Mt. Vernon mentioned.
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Post by davelewis on Dec 4, 2014 11:01:35 GMT -6
Are there any other companies milling duck canvas in the US? I've only ever seen Cone and Mt. Vernon mentioned. I think that these are the major players. If you do a google search, there are a few others, but look to be limited in production.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 4, 2014 11:07:07 GMT -6
I thought carhart made their own.
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Post by davelewis on Dec 4, 2014 11:13:33 GMT -6
I thought carhart made their own. When I talked to the Carhartt rep, she said it was US sourced. One would think they would mention if they made their own, but don't know if they operate their own mill.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 4, 2014 12:15:37 GMT -6
We should know soon since usctroll will have both in this possession.
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Post by Mattbert on Dec 4, 2014 12:48:04 GMT -6
we just got this great new fabric in. Mike is making a pair of 5 pockets in this fabric before his Columbus TX deer hunting trip this week end. we got this form our supplier in NC it is a 30oz Scottish bull denim..this is a little over 1/8" thick.. Mike will post pictures..well I will have it get the picture from him... he asked me to help him make these up...I hope it gets here on friday because he has to be on the road to Columbus TX 4am..I can already see this will be an all nighter.. Santa madre de dios. That stuff looks f!@king beefcake.
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Post by usctroll on Dec 4, 2014 12:53:06 GMT -6
we just got this great new fabric in. Mike is making a pair of 5 pockets in this fabric before his Columbus TX deer hunting trip this week end. we got this form our supplier in NC it is a 30oz Scottish bull denim..this is a little over 1/8" thick.. Mike will post pictures..well I will have it get the picture from him... he asked me to help him make these up...I hope it gets here on friday because he has to be on the road to Columbus TX 4am..I can already see this will be an all nighter.. Santa madre de dios. That stuff looks f!@king beefcake. It demands a true Texan test. I'm thinking about shooting increasing numbers of layers with .22lr (from a vintage marlin 39, natch) to see how many it takes to be bulletproof.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 4, 2014 13:05:47 GMT -6
Bull denim? Can anyone here educate me?
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Post by davelewis on Dec 4, 2014 13:59:37 GMT -6
Bull denim? Can anyone here educate me? I don't really know the intricacies between canvas, ducks, and twills, but this is some serious stuff. Ciano is sending me a swatch, and this stuff is a 1/8 inch thick. I was told they are not sure how their sewing maching is going to work on this. I don't know anything about sewing, but this material folded up to be sewn, far exceedes the distance required to fit under the guide of a normal machine. I'm sure the shop that sewed up the Beasts knows what I'm talking about. Mike is making up a pair for hunting, and we'll probably get some feedback and pictures of the finished product. I don't think a button fly is an option on these. I'm sure a pair of these would give you some bragging rights.
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Post by marauder on Dec 4, 2014 14:22:43 GMT -6
Bull denim? Can anyone here educate me? Bull denim is a type of twill. Typically, in regular denim warp thread is dyed (indigo usually) with weft being white and then it's woven. Bull is woven undyed and the entire piece is dyed afterwards. This will result in a uniform colored fabric (warp and weft).
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Post by davelewis on Dec 4, 2014 14:26:39 GMT -6
Bull denim? Can anyone here educate me? Bull denim is typically a type of twill. Typically, in regular denim warp thread is dyed (indigo usually) with weft being white and then it's woven. Bull is woven undyed and the entire piece is dyed afterwards. This will result in a uniform colored fabric (warp and weft). I also saw where it is made in much lighter weights, like around 10oz. I just know what a pair of raw double front Carhartts feel like when new, and can only imagine a pair of 30oz. Any takers if they make these available?
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Post by marauder on Dec 4, 2014 14:34:19 GMT -6
Bull denim? Can anyone here educate me? I don't really know the intricacies between canvas, ducks, and twills, but this is some serious stuff. Ciano is sending me a swatch, and this stuff is a 1/8 inch thick. I was told they are not sure how their sewing maching is going to work on this. I don't know anything about sewing, but this material folded up to be sewn, far exceedes the distance required to fit under the guide of a normal machine. I'm sure the shop that sewed up the Beasts knows what I'm talking about. Mike is making up a pair for hunting, and we'll probably get some feedback and pictures of the finished product. I don't think a button fly is an option on these. I'm sure a pair of these would give you some bragging rights. Canvas is a plain weave - that means each weft thread goes over one weft and then goes under one weft threads. This creates a uniform criss-cross pattern that looks identical when reversed. Duck is a type of Canvas that's more tightly knit. Twill - each weft thread goes over one warp thread and then under two warp threads and the next row is started with an offset that produces the diagonal lines that you see in your denim. Typically, the knit of canvas being more uniform and tight by definition produces a stiffer fabric than a twill and would give less.
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Post by Deleted on Dec 4, 2014 14:36:21 GMT -6
Thanks guys! I'm in! I love heavy clothing.
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Post by usctroll on Dec 4, 2014 14:36:27 GMT -6
I also saw where it is made in much lighter weights, like around 10oz. I just know what a pair of raw double front Carhartts feel like when new, and can only imagine a pair of 30oz. Any takers if they make these available? I don't know if it's really necessary, but I'm intrigued. I've gashed my Carhartts with chainsaws and knives, lit them on fire with grinder slag and have yet to mark my skin while wearing them. And yeah, they feel like stove pipes when new at 2x12oz.
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Post by marauder on Dec 4, 2014 14:42:13 GMT -6
I'd like to see a fully sewn pair of pants and then decide. I'm definitely intrigued.
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Post by davelewis on Dec 4, 2014 14:56:29 GMT -6
I also saw where it is made in much lighter weights, like around 10oz. I just know what a pair of raw double front Carhartts feel like when new, and can only imagine a pair of 30oz. Any takers if they make these available? I don't know if it's really necessary, but I'm intrigued. I've gashed my Carhartts with chainsaws and knives, lit them on fire with grinder slag and have yet to mark my skin while wearing them. And yeah, they feel like stove pipes when new at 2x12oz. My Carhartts have saved my skin from the chainsaw. Was very glad to have had them on.
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Post by Winterland on Dec 4, 2014 19:01:29 GMT -6
Full disclosure I did post this on the Lawless Wish list also. I like the pant you have been working on but would be interested in a nice cargo pant. I find the pockets to be very handy when doing certain activities. Here are some pics from an Iron Heart cargo 23oz selvedge serge in olive green and brown. Not sure how many others like a good cargo pant.
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Post by quick on Dec 4, 2014 21:30:34 GMT -6
The new website is awesome. very gustin like. easy to navigate, too.
What would a Gustin 35 slim equate to for CF? The slim fit labled sz 31 seems like the closest thing... except for the waist.
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Post by usctroll on Dec 4, 2014 21:47:29 GMT -6
Hang tight on the review guys, I can't get these things on to do a review. Everything measures out except the waist, but that wouldn't fix the fit for me. For anybody ordering, 33 slim Gustin does not equal 31 slim CF.
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Post by davelewis on Dec 4, 2014 22:37:35 GMT -6
Full disclosure I did post this on the Lawless Wish list also. I like the pant you have been working on but would be interested in a nice cargo pant. I find the pockets to be very handy when doing certain activities. Here are some pics from an Iron Heart cargo 23oz selvedge serge in olive green and brown. Not sure how many others like a good cargo pant. Those would be killer work pants for sure. I used to wear a lot of cargo pants when I lifted a lot going back in the day. The only raw denim was pretty much levi STF, and the legs were always too small for my waist size. These days I'm 30 lbs lighter, and don't have that problem. I have no doubt that Ciano would make you a pair if they had the duck you want. They are getting some heavier weights, but don't think its selvedge. To me it doesn't really matter with them, because they come with the lifetime guarantee.
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Post by usctroll on Dec 5, 2014 10:10:03 GMT -6
Quick update on the pants. I think the CF slim could be considered somewhat slimmer than a Gustin slim and not for me. Additionally, they sewed up about like the size 30 on the fit guide. Going to try again, likely with a 31 regular fit.
As far as the pants go I'm pretty much heartbroken that they don't fit. The construction is a definite step above my N&F and Carhartt WIP duck pants. If there's a better pair of non-denim pants out there for $70 or even $150 I'm not aware of them.
I don't want to put too much of the fit on CF because it took me 3 pairs to find my fit with Gustin and I probably tried on half a dozen sizes/fits at Traveller.
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