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Post by univibe88 on Mar 19, 2015 23:43:22 GMT -6
Cold ass ride from DC today. It was 28 when I left DC and never got much above 30. Oh, and I wore my beasts today (to stay on topic.)
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Post by Deleted on Mar 20, 2015 1:52:16 GMT -6
This thread cracks me up. A pair of jeans called "The Beast" that everyone seems to loathe wearing but hate being defeated by a pair of pants. I think I'll not order a Beast and join your suffering. I search for the next pair of jeans I will select to wear on my birthday because they are my favorites, rather than deciding to give myself a day off from wearing them on my birthday. Wore my new Gustin Italy blackxblacks today. Very nice. Not sure what to do about hemming as I need ~32" and these arrived around 36" even though they are 33" straight and specs are 34" inseam. I guess they are cutting them a bit long, or maybe planning they will shrink 2". I feel a bit weird with the bottoms cuffed. Not sure that's my style. Wore them with my Red Wing Iron Ranger cap toe boots, in a rough brown leather. These boots rock and I like them more each time I wear them.
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Post by wdw on Mar 20, 2015 1:58:48 GMT -6
mountainman, if you know Gustin and you've read these threads, you'll know that specs aren't always met.
A 2" error isn't normally acceptable, but at least you can get them shortened or I'm sure they'd take them back and credit you. Maybe just ask for a credit to the value of the hemming. I'm sure they'd agree to that, as the cheapest option.
My Loomstates (and many others, I think) came in 2" short, but that just meant a single instead of double cuff.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 20, 2015 2:20:07 GMT -6
Yes, long is better than short I guess. Since many people seem to like to cuff right now it probably makes sense for all these pants to be cut to 36". 34" would be too short for most people over 6" to cuff. I'm right at 6' so 34" would work without cuffing if it shrunk 1-2", or I could single cuff it sometimes if I were in the mood. As it stands right now I have a fairly thick double cuff to use up the slack. I'm not going to send them back as I like them. I'll wear them a few more times and then decide what to hem them to. Probably best to wash first. Do most of these shrink 1-2" during the first wash? How much variation? Do they continue to shrink more over multiple washes?
thanks
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Post by wdw on Mar 20, 2015 2:25:26 GMT -6
I think shrinkage on Sanforized jeans will be minimal, if anything at all. Certainly not two inches, maybe 0.5" at most.
The only jeans that will shrink 2" or so will be Loomstates-type ones. I can't remember the technical term for that material. Mine shrunk 2" anyway.
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Post by julian on Mar 20, 2015 2:58:07 GMT -6
The only jeans that will shrink 2" or so will be Loomstates-type ones. I can't remember the technical term for that material. In theory, there are basically three states for denim: Loomstate: untouched once the denim fabric is taken from the loom and prior to being made up into garments. Unsanforized: Loomstate denim that has not been Sanforized. However, it could still have undergone some post-loom process, such as:
Mercerized: a process of exposing the fabric to sodium hydroxide a number of times in order to shrink the fibers and smooth out the grains of the threads. It gives the denim a different look and feel (whether it's better or worse is a matter of personal preference) but it does also make the fabric stronger. It also has the effect of restricting the penetration of dyes into the threads, which in theory could potentially lead to faster and more pronounced fading where denim is concerned (as indigo is a technically poor dye substance in the first place).
There are also other, generally more physical, processes such as skewing and singeing.
Sanforized: essentially, the denim is 'washed' (ie, made wet) in order to deliberately shrink it and then stretched out again. This process means that the majority/all of the shrinkage the fabric will take on is already dealt with before it's made in garmets - meaning those garments shouldn't shrink much/at all once the owner washes it. The problem is that the terms become muddled from the manufacturer/retailer descriptions and almost no pairs I've ever seen listed make mention of Mercerization, or not.
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Post by brentkuz on Mar 20, 2015 7:02:06 GMT -6
Don't forget loomstate also forgos singeing
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Post by julian on Mar 20, 2015 7:21:48 GMT -6
Don't forget loomstate also forgos singeing Yup, that was mentioned...
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Post by brentkuz on Mar 20, 2015 8:05:26 GMT -6
Don't forget loomstate also forgos singeing Yup, that was mentioned... Ah I overlooked it
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Post by Old26 on Mar 20, 2015 8:25:52 GMT -6
mountainman3520 - the Beasts are amazing. They are a great pair of jeans. Being Gustin's first and almost last pair of super heavy, they did a good job with them. Understanding that the cost was very reasonable and I still find them to be a great pair of jeans. But being honest, 18oz is my current favorite weight, and I want to try some 21's (another brand obviously). I live in SoCal and I don't get lots of chances to enjoy the 26oz Beasts, so I'm just happier with a little lighter weight.
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Post by davelewis on Mar 20, 2015 10:28:25 GMT -6
This thread cracks me up. A pair of jeans called "The Beast" that everyone seems to loathe wearing but hate being defeated by a pair of pants. I think I'll not order a Beast and join your suffering. I search for the next pair of jeans I will select to wear on my birthday because they are my favorites, rather than deciding to give myself a day off from wearing them on my birthday. Wore my new Gustin Italy blackxblacks today. Very nice. Not sure what to do about hemming as I need ~32" and these arrived around 36" even though they are 33" straight and specs are 34" inseam. I guess they are cutting them a bit long, or maybe planning they will shrink 2". I feel a bit weird with the bottoms cuffed. Not sure that's my style. Wore them with my Red Wing Iron Ranger cap toe boots, in a rough brown leather. These boots rock and I like them more each time I wear them. I find my Beasts to be an exceptional jean. Can't say I've seen anyone else offer up this denim. I'm not sure what folks don't like about them, as long as they fit, and am not sure what people were expecting from a 26oz pant. Lets just say I wouldn't trade my pair, for whats behind the curtain at LD.
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Post by brentkuz on Mar 20, 2015 18:53:08 GMT -6
I love my beasts! My problem is the sewed up to 35slim instead of 36slim. Bit small which is where the discomfort stems from. Also I should get them hemmed. Fabric is great.
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Post by Deleted on Mar 20, 2015 22:19:37 GMT -6
Thanks for all the good background info. I reread the Gustin care guide and they also say the inseam shrinkage should be "up to 0.5"". That means I'm going to need to get these italy blackxblacks hemmed at AB fits to ~33". Do those of you who hem them generally wash one time first, then hem? Or hem before washing and add 0.5" for future shrinkage and then hope its not much more or less than that? Or cuff them for however many months you hold out until the first wash and then hem? Jeans can get complicated.
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Post by univibe88 on Mar 21, 2015 7:08:54 GMT -6
I love my beasts! My problem is the sewed up to 35slim instead of 36slim. Bit small which is where the discomfort stems from. Also I should get them hemmed. Fabric is great. I agree. Love mine too. For me any "complaining" about them is tongue-in-cheek. My 36 straights sewed up as 35 straights, which turned out to be a blessing. I had not dialed in my Gustin size yet and it turns out 35 is my proper size.
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Post by brentkuz on Mar 21, 2015 9:03:16 GMT -6
Odd mountain man seemed to leave rather quickly.
My beasts are forsale if anyone wants them. 36slim but closer to 35slim in the leg.
Buy them now before I lose weight and they fit again! Or is put them on eBay.
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Post by univibe88 on Mar 21, 2015 10:18:06 GMT -6
As for hemming, I find the beasts stack really well. And I am generally don't stack, but it works on the beasts for me.
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Post by Old26 on Mar 21, 2015 10:19:11 GMT -6
As for hemming, I find the beasts stack really well. And I am generally don't stack, but it works on the beasts for me. I agree with that. Mine aren't long enough to cuff, but they have a unique look that is very nice. Mine sewed up 1" small so with my winter 15 still here, I can't comfortably wear them yet...
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Post by beeranddenim on Mar 22, 2015 11:40:46 GMT -6
My experience with sanforized raw denim is 1" shrink in the inseam isn't uncommon at all. That's why I usually cold soak when I get them although if the waist is already super tight be careful. It will stretch back out but you could have a hard time buttoning them at first.
Bath tub cold soak a little less but I cold soak mine in the hand wash setting with barely any spin then hang dry.
I think the washer exposes the fibers just a little more.
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Post by univibe88 on Apr 2, 2015 13:55:43 GMT -6
Just booked a summer vaca on Martha's Vineyard. There will be beastly ocean washing!! hahahaha
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Post by univibe88 on May 16, 2015 20:09:22 GMT -6
Any beastly fade pics out there? Anyone put some hard time into theirs?
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Post by Deleted on May 16, 2015 20:11:29 GMT -6
Any beastly fade pics out there? Anyone put some hard time into theirs? I haven't been even able to put them on fully yet..hurts so much to button up lmao!
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Post by jray on May 16, 2015 20:34:09 GMT -6
I've been able to get mine buttoned up a few times but it wasn't easy. I must say, the denim is the coolest i've experienced next to my slubby oni's. The light blue speckles make it very unique. Have to find someone who will hem these bastards without breaking the sewing machine!
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Post by univibe88 on May 16, 2015 21:41:25 GMT -6
You need to develop a callus on your thumb so you can button them up.
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Post by brentkuz on May 16, 2015 21:53:49 GMT -6
Any beastly fade pics out there? Anyone put some hard time into theirs? You have the best beats by far. I need to drop 10lbs to really wear mine.
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Post by univibe88 on May 16, 2015 21:57:59 GMT -6
Any beastly fade pics out there? Anyone put some hard time into theirs? You have the best beats by far. I need to drop 10lbs to really wear mine. Thanks brah!
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