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Post by benjaminpersitz on Jun 6, 2016 9:27:17 GMT -6
I had the awesome opportunity to learn how to build a pair of boots this weekend. I made these from scratch by hand from foot casting, to pattern design, to sewing and gluing.  They are a non lasted custom molded shoe with a wide toe box and they are the most comfortable shoe I've ever owned. We used non corrected leather because it is easier to work with when doing non lasted shoes. I am going to try using some Horween Essex leather at some point to see if I can get a corrected grain leather to work. Also, making boots is a lot of f!@king work. My hands hurt. Has anyone else done this? |
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Post by bentin on Jun 6, 2016 9:29:41 GMT -6
Wow, that's pretty impressive. I'm trying to work up the nerve to hem my own pants and you're making shoes. Well done.
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Post by benjaminpersitz on Jun 6, 2016 9:35:17 GMT -6
Wow, that's pretty impressive. I'm trying to work up the nerve to hem my own pants and you're making shoes. Well done. Thanks. I should mention that we had a good teacher helping us. The only part we didn't have a hand in was sewing on the heel counter because the machine we were using broke, and we didn't have time to learn how to use a different machine with a different stitch pattern, so our teacher sewed that part and tried to hand duplicate the stitching. |
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Post by wdw on Jun 6, 2016 10:17:29 GMT -6
Well done you. What sort of sole is it and how is all stuck together? Glue?
And what does "non-corrected leather" mean?
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Post by benjaminpersitz on Jun 6, 2016 11:01:18 GMT -6
Well done you. What sort of sole is it and how is all stuck together? Glue? And what does "non-corrected leather" mean? It's a Vibram sole, and I'm not really sure what it is. It was a sheet sole that we cut out versus a put together outsole that we trimmed. It looks like it will have decent traction. The upper is glued together using contact cement, then stitched together after gluing. The upper to sole construction is an internal stitchdown, which is a technique my teacher has sort of "created". You hand stitch using a Mckay stitcher needle and create a lockstitch. This process is incredibly difficult and time consuming because there are about 60 stitch points on the shoe. The process is as a follows: The mckay stitcher is an awl with a curved j hook at the end that replicates a fine fish hook. You divide your thread in half and pull half of it to the inside of the shoe and half of it to the outside in the first stitch. You then tie a loop on the inside of the upper and attach it to the mckay hook, pull the loop out through the stitch-hole, bring the outside thread up through the outside loop, creating a lockstitch, and then pull the whole loop back to the inside of the leather upper. You then hand tighten the stitch and center it in the midsole. Wash rinse and repeat 60 times for each shoe. Non-corrected leather is leather that has a natural grain. You'll notice that the leather on my shoes has texture versus the smooth finished leather you'd find on most boots. That is because the leather has not been treated, compressed, and smoothed out like most leather used in shoes. Using non corrected leather is better for this process because when the leather undergoes a correction process it loses some of its stretch and elasticity. Because we aren't making this shoe on a last, it then becomes harder to form the shoe, and the leather is more rigid. These shoes are designed to exactly fit your foot, and using rigid leather would make that process very difficult. That said, I still want to try it. |
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Post by pisgahrangeltd on Jun 9, 2016 11:23:48 GMT -6
Wow. Those are awesome. I'd love to try making my own boots one day. Are you an experienced leather worker?
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Post by benjaminpersitz on Jun 9, 2016 12:23:21 GMT -6
Wow. Those are awesome. I'd love to try making my own boots one day. Are you an experienced leather worker? This is the first time I've ever made anything. |
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Post by benjaminpersitz on Jul 5, 2016 19:41:25 GMT -6
So I picked up my own set of tools and a side of Horween Essex in burgundy. Really excited to make another pair of chukkas. After I get that down my plan is to make some flats for the S/O in the Essex, and some boots for the kiddos.
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Post by exophobe on Jul 5, 2016 20:13:56 GMT -6
So I picked up my own set of tools and a side of Horween Essex in burgundy. Really excited to make another pair of chukkas. After I get that down my plan is to make some flats for the S/O in the Essex, and some boots for the kiddos. If you don't mind me asking, where'd you order the side from? |
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Post by benjaminpersitz on Jul 5, 2016 21:28:45 GMT -6
So I picked up my own set of tools and a side of Horween Essex in burgundy. Really excited to make another pair of chukkas. After I get that down my plan is to make some flats for the S/O in the Essex, and some boots for the kiddos. If you don't mind me asking, where'd you order the side from? Maverick leather. $3/sq ft. Insanely cheap. 3.5 oz |
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Post by disheveled on Jul 6, 2016 10:25:46 GMT -6
Wow, that's pretty impressive. I'm trying to work up the nerve to hem my own pants and you're making shoes. Well done. Thanks. I should mention that we had a good teacher helping us. The only part we didn't have a hand in was sewing on the heel counter because the machine we were using broke, and we didn't have time to learn how to use a different machine with a different stitch pattern, so our teacher sewed that part and tried to hand duplicate the stitching. Really cool! Thanks for sharing; I think they turned out great looking--and custom made just for your feet. Was this a commercial venture? or more an informal, friends teaching friends? This seems like a great local business model: Shoes/boots, belts, shirts, jeans, etc... kinda like the paint pictures/make pottery and drink wine gig, but you get to leave with custom designs and tailored shyt just for you--as well some new skills and understanding, because you had a hand in the process! Who's jumping on with me as a preliminary investor? 1K minimum initial investment 10K for Partnership status  lol |
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Post by benjaminpersitz on Jul 6, 2016 11:06:38 GMT -6
Thanks. I should mention that we had a good teacher helping us. The only part we didn't have a hand in was sewing on the heel counter because the machine we were using broke, and we didn't have time to learn how to use a different machine with a different stitch pattern, so our teacher sewed that part and tried to hand duplicate the stitching. Really cool! Thanks for sharing; I think they turned out great looking--and custom made just for your feet. Was this a commercial venture? or more an informal, friends teaching friends? This seems like a great local business model: Shoes/boots, belts, shirts, jeans, etc... kinda like the paint pictures/make pottery and drink wine gig, but you get to leave with custom designs and tailored shyt just for you--as well some new skills and understanding, because you had a hand in the process! Who's jumping on with me as a preliminary investor? 1K minimum initial investment 10K for Partnership status lol Laughingcrowe.com he charges between 400 and 600 for a class. Mine was a private class so it was 650. |
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Post by disheveled on Jul 6, 2016 11:11:12 GMT -6
Really cool! Thanks for sharing; I think they turned out great looking--and custom made just for your feet. Was this a commercial venture? or more an informal, friends teaching friends? This seems like a great local business model: Shoes/boots, belts, shirts, jeans, etc... kinda like the paint pictures/make pottery and drink wine gig, but you get to leave with custom designs and tailored shyt just for you--as well some new skills and understanding, because you had a hand in the process! Who's jumping on with me as a preliminary investor? 1K minimum initial investment 10K for Partnership status lol Laughingcrowe.com he charges between 400 and 600 for a class. Mine was a private class so it was 650. Cool stuff, thanks for sharing |
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lol