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Post by jeffr0 on Sept 3, 2015 8:02:09 GMT -6
Wow. Ciano and Mike great find! I would definitely be interested in a pair of these.
As I love very unique denim the more neppy the better. Anxious to see more.
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Post by Griffin on Sept 3, 2015 15:39:14 GMT -6
Yeah i know offcourse, but i was asking about the type-2 bc of the pleats. 20oz pleating sounds like work. C said fine tho so yay. |
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Post by benjaminpersitz on Sept 3, 2015 23:43:45 GMT -6
Ugh sign me up. Add that to the list with some grey chinos and some indigo x indigo.
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Post by brentkuz on Sept 4, 2015 6:23:03 GMT -6
If this happens I'm in.
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Post by indigoferanut on Sept 4, 2015 18:39:34 GMT -6
Today I received the swatch from Ciano of their Kurabo Mills denim sample. The following is a direct comparison between my pair of 20oz Oni secret denim (non-wash version, never been soaked) and the Ciano swatch of fabric. Before I start, I want to be perfectly clear - I am not affiliated with, I do not know, nor do I work for Ciano, Oni, or Kurabo Mills. I'm just a boring electrical engineer with a passion for denim, and a scientifically curious mind. My unbiased, objective opinion: Weave: appears the same (I actually counted 50 lines of weft on the swatch and 50 lines of weft on the Oni and then measured the length - both measured 46mm) Color/dye - appears the same - there is no discernible difference in hue between the indigo of the warps and the beige of the wefts, pink ID matches also. Hairiness - appears the same Nep - inconclusive - swatch is too small to get an accurate comparison. The swatch had no apparent neps present in the 2x8 inch area. The Oni's are very neppy as you well know, but to be fair, the random neps that poke through on the Oni denim occur such that I could easily find an area of denim on the Oni's that matched the size of the swatch and find no neps in that area. Slub/Texture - the Oni denim had moderately greater texture and slubbiness as compared to the swatch. I liken the comparison to 200 grit sandpaper and 400 grit - both are rough, the 200 just more so. Don't get me wrong, the swatch had great texture and character, the Oni's just a little more so.... Weight - since I did not have a swatch of the Oni denim (I'm all for scientific research, but I'm not going to go so far as to cut into my Oni's!) I geeked out on this one. Stay with me here.... the swatch was 16 square inches, and on my kitchen scale weighed in at 0.2 oz (scale rounds to the tenths). Denim weight is based on a square yard of fabric, so I am assuming the Oni denim has a weight of 20 oz per square yard as they advertise. A square yard converts to 1,296 square inches. Thus scaling the 16 square inch swatch up to 1296 square inches yielded a theoretical 16 oz for a square yard of the swatch ((1296/16)x0.2). Accounting for rounding of the scale, the swatch could have weighed as little as 0.15 oz or as great as 0.24 oz, yielding a range of 12oz-19oz weight. My initial impression by merely handling the swatch was that the swatch was slightly less weighty than the Oni denim, I would place it around 18 oz. Conclusion:Aside from the inconclusive nep comparison (which albeit could be a large visual difference if the Kurabo denim ends up lacking neps), both fabrics are so close that, even if they are not the same fabric, the swatch is an excellent copy of the Oni. Hope this helps. If I forgot a key comparison let me know soon before I send the swatch back to Ciano! Pictures below:     |
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Post by cianofarmer on Sept 4, 2015 18:53:42 GMT -6
indigoferanut thanks for the feed back and helping us compare the fabric..... WELL... it looks the same to me!...HAAA.. we will get a bigger swatch in the next couple of days...1 yard piece..so we can see if the nap is more prevalent on the surface...[ will take pictures ] but we would love everyones feed back...i think we found out where the Secret Denim is Made........ Mike did make up an order form for a jean and jacket see attached links...this will not be on our website....... Cheers Ciano [ order forms] SECRET DENIM JEANS cfdco1.typeform.com/to/wa4gSSSECRET DENIM JACKET cfdco1.typeform.com/to/cdhAJM |
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Post by variable on Sept 4, 2015 18:57:27 GMT -6
Giggity.
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Post by indigoferanut on Sept 4, 2015 19:01:11 GMT -6
Ciano - you're welcome. Thanks for being willing to mail out the swatch.
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Post by cianofarmer on Sept 4, 2015 20:24:13 GMT -6
sooo.. Mike is emailing Kurabo Mills to see the actual yardage on hand.....and when it will be available again....I KNOW..we are getting 50 yards because they took our money already,,HAAAAA Mike wants to know if you guys want to know the "ACTUAL" details,,,,how, why, when, and where???... he will ask them to see if we can get the production details of the fabric....because I'am curious...at the same time I do not want to push them and lose the opportunity to get this fabric.....I guess what I'am saying is I'am going to play stupid,,and say....."what?  ....I Like this fabric and can i have more"...HAAAAAA we know they have 200+ yards on hand.....we are going to rush ship 3 yards to make a sample [ MY SIZE ...sorry...augh!!!!-50USD FEDEX....]..so we can get the fit right and the shrinkage down since it is 8%...[ that is 2.5"-3" in the waist...wow]... i guess i am never washing these jeans...HAAAAAA... CHEERS CIANO |
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Post by cianofarmer on Sept 4, 2015 20:29:09 GMT -6
Ciano - you're welcome. Thanks for being willing to mail out the swatch. no...thank you and thank you for the honest review,,,,, just want to be on the up and up with everyone... |
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Post by Marc on Sept 5, 2015 7:00:08 GMT -6
I wonder if this could be the same as the Zimbabwe Loomstate that Gustin has up right now. ID looks very similar.
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Post by brentkuz on Sept 5, 2015 7:07:42 GMT -6
I wonder if this could be the same as the Zimbabwe Loomstate that Gustin has up right now. ID looks very similar. Judging by the weight no. |
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Post by Griffin on Sept 5, 2015 10:21:54 GMT -6
Could it work to do the math like this:
48" chest -8% shrinkage will end up with 44+ chest ?
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Post by brentkuz on Sept 5, 2015 11:31:44 GMT -6
Could it work to do the math like this: 48" chest -8% shrinkage will end up with 44+ chest ? I would say your results might vary. Losing 4" total in the chest I think is a bit much. 46" to shrink to a 44" I would say yes. I am basing this off other shirts not this specific denim. |
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Post by whiskeyriver on Sept 5, 2015 12:16:56 GMT -6
Putting a cookie sheet/oven tray in when you soak will mean you won't lose anything past that tray's width. Just sayin'.
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Post by Griffin on Sept 5, 2015 12:23:41 GMT -6
I prefer to try and get it as near as I can, and for a jacket there is a much bigger window of ok. I just feel a jacket has more potential to be soaked in the rain (especially here) and I could be at a friends house or on the road or anything and it shouldnt potentially be able to shrink so its unwearable.
Since I can start wherever, it would be nice if we could have a hotsoak of a swatch.
The G-loomstate shrank about 5% didnt they?
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Post by jbreitenbucher on Sept 5, 2015 14:20:24 GMT -6
Ciano sent me an email because I asked about sizing on my order. He said to order my normal size as they will be doing tests to determine the amount of shrink and adjusting their patterns as needed. As an example, I'm a 32 tag size in the 901 and those come with a finished waist of 35. My guess is Ciano will adjust things so that a 32 tag will come with between a 36 and 37 finished waist depending on how the shrink tests go. They'll probably do something similar for the hem length.
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mrlono
Junior Member
Posts: 97 
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Post by mrlono on Sept 5, 2015 22:44:36 GMT -6
Just ordered one of the jackets! My first time ordering from Ciano, but based on the the feedback and photos here I can't wait to see how these look when complete. I did have a few questions about slight modifications to the fit / style, so hopefully I can discuss with the CF gents.
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Post by SlimFatty on Sept 5, 2015 23:36:45 GMT -6
Just ordered one of the jackets! My first time ordering from Ciano, but based on the the feedback and photos here I can't wait to see how these look when complete. I did have a few questions about slight modifications to the fit / style, so hopefully I can discuss with the CF gents. I just placed my first order with CF, too. I'm in for the jeans. |
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Post by exophobe on Sept 7, 2015 0:02:57 GMT -6
These look nice. Is the secret denim denim made from some kind of special cotton?  Oni won't tell anyone anything at all about it, which is why they call it secret denim. |
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Post by SlimFatty on Sept 7, 2015 6:47:48 GMT -6
These look nice. Is the secret denim denim made from some kind of special cotton? Oni won't tell anyone anything at all about it, which is why they call it secret denim. I'm sure it comes from one of the finest mills in Japan and is buttery soft. |
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Post by whiskeyriver on Sept 7, 2015 11:39:46 GMT -6
Oni won't tell anyone anything at all about it, which is why they call it secret denim. I'm sure it comes from one of the finest mills in Japan and is buttery soft. If by "buttery" and "soft" you mean this...  ...then yes, yes it is "buttery soft." |
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Post by SlimFatty on Sept 7, 2015 12:20:03 GMT -6
I'm sure it comes from one of the finest mills in Japan and is buttery soft. If by "buttery" and "soft" you mean this... ...then yes, yes it is "buttery soft." I'm hoping it's closer to butter left in the fridge. |
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Post by whiskeyriver on Sept 7, 2015 12:41:25 GMT -6
That's closer. And I am saying this all as a positive. I love rough feeling jeans because they break and bend and soften and become "yours" over time.
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Post by cianofarmer on Sept 10, 2015 9:03:11 GMT -6
so we got the 1/4 yard in for Japan...[ not the 1 yard ] we got a FEDEX notice today for the 50 yard roll ..it should be here next week.HAAAAAA herE are some pictures.. alot more nap on the fabric... indigoferanut let me know if you want me to send this to you.... ??   |
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