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Post by gaseousclay on Jul 30, 2015 11:58:44 GMT -6
i'm coming up on 1 year of having become interested in selvedge denim and as I expected, my tastes have evolved considerably since then. I normally buy a regular fit or slim straight fit because I can't do baggy and I can't do skinny. All of the jeans I own have cuff measurements ranging from 8" wide to 8.25" wide. Naturally, i've found that the cuff width more or less determines what shoes I pair my jeans with. Most of the time I wear sneakers, but on occasion I wear boots. I've found that for wider cuffs I tend to veer towards sneakers. Although, i've now decided I want to go for a narrower cuff somewhere in the range of 7.75" to 7.5" because I think this would look better with boots. That isn't to say that boots look silly with a wider cuff but I think the type of fabric the jeans are made of also make a difference. My denim purchases have mostly been dictated by price followed by fit but now i'm turning it around to prioritize fit over price.
How long did it take for you to dial in the fit that works best for you? Which brands do you think offer the best fit overall?
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Post by wdw on Jul 30, 2015 12:17:37 GMT -6
I must be at 20 months or so, having been tempted by good comments about G on the Fedora Lounge. I'm not too fussed about fit. I'm happy with regular and prefer wider hems, particularly for engineer boots. My main interest is colour, having now I think 6 non-indigos, but my favourites are my G Loomies because of the texture.
Now having around 12-15 pairs in the last 20 months, and Ciano 23oz on order, I just can't justify any more. I'd love IHs, and wish I'd gone straight down that route and avoided wasting money on the 5 or 6 indigos I have.
I came to this forum for G, was fooled and rogered by LD, but that was redeemed by Ciano and then the enablers here putting me on to IH.
In answer to gaseous' question, from what I've seen, IH seem to have the most consistent best fit.
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Post by exophobe on Jul 30, 2015 12:27:30 GMT -6
i'm coming up on 1 year of having become interested in selvedge denim and as I expected, my tastes have evolved considerably since then. I normally buy a regular fit or slim straight fit because I can't do baggy and I can't do skinny. All of the jeans I own have cuff measurements ranging from 8" wide to 8.25" wide. Naturally, i've found that the cuff width more or less determines what shoes I pair my jeans with. Most of the time I wear sneakers, but on occasion I wear boots. I've found that for wider cuffs I tend to veer towards sneakers. Although, i've now decided I want to go for a narrower cuff somewhere in the range of 7.75" to 7.5" because I think this would look better with boots. That isn't to say that boots look silly with a wider cuff but I think the type of fabric the jeans are made of also make a difference. My denim purchases have mostly been dictated by price followed by fit but now i'm turning it around to prioritize fit over price. How long did it take for you to dial in the fit that works best for you? Which brands do you think offer the best fit overall? I feel the opposite. A boot or "chunky" shoe makes a wider hem width work proportionally, whereas with a sneaker I have to have a narrow hem width otherwise they look like they're being swallowed. Boots are typically taller, which makes a narrow hem less wieldy when tying, untying, etc. It can start to look a bit unproportional if you have a big boot sticking out of a tiny hem width. If you actually cuff your jeans (I don't typically, it makes me feel a little too Leave it to Beaver) then this may work out differently, so know that's not where I'm coming from. The Naked and Famous Weird Guy actually fits me really well since it seems to taper slightly less than the Gustin slim and have a slightly higher rise in the back, but on average the Gustin slim works out really well for me -- unless I need to do physical work in them. Flint and Tinder slim is very similar to the Weird Guy. I like my hem width somewhere between 7.5 and 8 (on a 33" waist), but when they're closer to 7.5 it becomes annoying to tie a 6-8" boot. The Gustin straight is pretty awful on me and baggy everywhere. The lawless slim straight worked out the best for me , so it's unfortunate that's good as gone. My Ciano 5-pockets are good but the rise in back is a little too low for me, so in the future I'll probably just work to dial in that fit a bit more and be done. I also have a pair of 501s that fit me pretty exceptionally, but they seem to be a bit of an anomaly as I've never found another that fits the same. The best thing in the world you can do is honestly measure (no "close enough") existing clothes and compare to fit guides. Since I got there I haven't had much trouble finding the pair that will fit me from any new brand I've tried.
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Post by DigDug on Jul 30, 2015 12:44:42 GMT -6
Just one observation I've noticed. A lot of what size cuff looks good on someone is how big the shoe size is and what size jeans they wear. For example I wear a Size 38 slim Gustin with a size 9 shoe. The same Slim Gustin cut on someone in a 32" (smaller cuff) and size 11 foot would look different.
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Post by Deleted on Jul 30, 2015 12:49:25 GMT -6
Just one observation I've noticed. A lot of what size cuff looks good on someone is how big the shoe size is and what size jeans they wear. For example I wear a Size 38 slim Gustin with a size 9 shoe. The same Slim Gustin cut on someone in a 32" (smaller cuff) and size 11 foot would look different. This. 32" waist, size 9 shoe and can only work with cuff measurements 7"-7.75", with 7.5" being the most versatile (boots to shoes)
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Post by julian on Jul 31, 2015 4:08:43 GMT -6
This. 32" waist, size 9 shoe and can only work with cuff measurements 7"-7.75", with 7.5" being the most versatile (boots to shoes) That's my feeling as well. I wear a 32" in most jeans, although a 33" in Gustin, and have found the 7.5 to 7.75" hem openings work best with boots. I rarely, if ever, wear shoes with jeans but when I wear trainers I prefer a 7.75 to 8" hem opening as it fits over the top of the trainer opening better - especially with heavier raw denim as it tends not to drape too well. In terms of how long it took me to find my perfect fit, probably about 2 years (seriously!) and I found it with Railcar's Spike. Surprisingly, the one pair of Lawless jeans that managed to find their way to me also fit me perfectly.
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Post by gaseousclay on Jul 31, 2015 8:13:31 GMT -6
I feel the opposite. A boot or "chunky" shoe makes a wider hem width work proportionally, whereas with a sneaker I have to have a narrow hem width otherwise they look like they're being swallowed. Boots are typically taller, which makes a narrow hem less wieldy when tying, untying, etc. It can start to look a bit unproportional if you have a big boot sticking out of a tiny hem width. If you actually cuff your jeans (I don't typically, it makes me feel a little too Leave it to Beaver) then this may work out differently, so know that's not where I'm coming from. The Naked and Famous Weird Guy actually fits me really well since it seems to taper slightly less than the Gustin slim and have a slightly higher rise in the back, but on average the Gustin slim works out really well for me -- unless I need to do physical work in them. Flint and Tinder slim is very similar to the Weird Guy. I like my hem width somewhere between 7.5 and 8 (on a 33" waist), but when they're closer to 7.5 it becomes annoying to tie a 6-8" boot. The Gustin straight is pretty awful on me and baggy everywhere. The lawless slim straight worked out the best for me , so it's unfortunate that's good as gone. My Ciano 5-pockets are good but the rise in back is a little too low for me, so in the future I'll probably just work to dial in that fit a bit more and be done. I also have a pair of 501s that fit me pretty exceptionally, but they seem to be a bit of an anomaly as I've never found another that fits the same. The best thing in the world you can do is honestly measure (no "close enough") existing clothes and compare to fit guides. Since I got there I haven't had much trouble finding the pair that will fit me from any new brand I've tried. The N&F weird guy fit works pretty well for me too. In this instance though I'm still undecided on whether or not I want to keep those IndigoxCopper jeans I purchased not too long ago. That was purely a case of them being so cheap that I couldn't resist, but now i'm thinking I'd look pretty stupid wearing glittery jeans. But i'm with you, I think a hem somewhere between 7.5-8" is ideal. I think the reason I prefer a small hem for boots is that it does a better job of hugging your ankles and has a cleaner silhouette than a wider hem.
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Post by exophobe on Jul 31, 2015 8:41:27 GMT -6
The N&F weird guy fit works pretty well for me too. In this instance though I'm still undecided on whether or not I want to keep those IndigoxCopper jeans I purchased not too long ago. That was purely a case of them being so cheap that I couldn't resist, but now i'm thinking I'd look pretty stupid wearing glittery jeans. But i'm with you, I think a hem somewhere between 7.5-8" is ideal. I think the reason I prefer a small hem for boots is that it does a better job of hugging your ankles and has a cleaner silhouette than a wider hem. I also forgot about the athletic shoes with 2" soles and thick profiles (new balance style) since I don't wear those. I agree that those work very poorly with a narrow cuff, as mentioned yesterday.
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