Belts

[gaseousclay]

i'm nitpicky when it comes to belts. I have one of Rancourt's brown CXL belts and it's my favorite hands down and tough to beat. Their belts are 1.5" wide, CXL outer, veg tanned leather liner, matching stitching, roller buckle and burnished edges. I can't stand belts that have raw edges and that are sold as single strips of leather. It feels like the lazy man's belt and like virtually no work went into making it, aside from fastening the buckle. Just my opinion of course. I expect my Rancourt belt to last me for life

[exophobe]

I somewhat agree with you, but I much prefer the look of a simple belt to that of one with stitching and all sorts of other stuff going on. So I see your point, but as a matter of taste disagree. I would be truly shocked if my heavyweight belt from Gustin ever "wore out".

[gaseousclay]

belts in general will last for years, even the cheap imported variety. For me it boils down to aesthetics and construction. I like my belts to feel substantial and Rancourt does a great job in the looks/construction department. Also, I like the way my CXL has developed its own patina over the last 6-7 months from daily wear. I have no doubt that should my Rancourt belt start to fall apart I can likely send it back to them for repair.

[exophobe]

Oct 21, 2014 7:23:44 GMT -6 gaseousclay said:

belts in general will last for years, even the cheap imported variety. For me it boils down to aesthetics and construction. I like my belts to feel substantial and Rancourt does a great job in the looks/construction department. Also, I like the way my CXL has developed its own patina over the last 6-7 months from daily wear. I have no doubt that should my Rancourt belt start to fall apart I can likely send it back to them for repair.

The majority of belts sold in department stores, outlet stores, etc are genuine leather -- the chipboard or fiberboard of the leather world. This may be because I'm in the relatively dry climate of Colorado, but they start splitting and fraying within a year, 100% of the time. If they're made of full grain leather, they will last forever, with minimal care. Even with abuse and neglect, you'll get years out of them.

Anything will develop a patina with extensive use and care. The tragedy is when it doesn't last long enough to do so. 

[kkozel]

This did pretty well too on kickstarter

[gaseousclay]

Oct 21, 2014 7:32:29 GMT -6 exophobe said:

Oct 21, 2014 7:23:44 GMT -6 gaseousclay said:

belts in general will last for years, even the cheap imported variety. For me it boils down to aesthetics and construction. I like my belts to feel substantial and Rancourt does a great job in the looks/construction department. Also, I like the way my CXL has developed its own patina over the last 6-7 months from daily wear. I have no doubt that should my Rancourt belt start to fall apart I can likely send it back to them for repair.

The majority of belts sold in department stores, outlet stores, etc are genuine leather -- the chipboard or fiberboard of the leather world. This may be because I'm in the relatively dry climate of Colorado, but they start splitting and fraying within a year, 100% of the time. If they're made of full grain leather, they will last forever, with minimal care. Even with abuse and neglect, you'll get years out of them.

Anything will develop a patina with extensive use and care. The tragedy is when it doesn't last long enough to do so. 

I agree that full grain leather will last forever. My preference is for CXL leather, but a lot of people like bridle leather for its toughness. The reason I like CXL is that because of how it's treated, it's prone to scratching and other signs of wear and it shows. a lot of people dislike CXL for this reason, but for belts it's perfect. My Rancourt belt is nice and scratched up from daily use and it'll only get better.

[Deleted]

gaseousclay said:

I agree that full grain leather will last forever. My preference is for CXL leather, but a lot of people like bridle leather for its toughness. The reason I like CXL is that because of how it's treated, it's prone to scratching and other signs of wear and it shows. a lot of people dislike CXL for this reason, but for belts it's perfect. My Rancourt belt is nice and scratched up from daily use and it'll only get better.

The only thing I don't like about cxl belts is the stretch which typically requires a 2nd layer of non cxl to be glued & stitched to it. Overall I prefer a simple single piece belt, partially because of the aesthetics of the stitching

[Mattbert]

Oct 22, 2014 9:14:20 GMT -6 @david said:

gaseousclay said:

I agree that full grain leather will last forever. My preference is for CXL leather, but a lot of people like bridle leather for its toughness. The reason I like CXL is that because of how it's treated, it's prone to scratching and other signs of wear and it shows. a lot of people dislike CXL for this reason, but for belts it's perfect. My Rancourt belt is nice and scratched up from daily use and it'll only get better.

The only thing I don't like about cxl belts is the stretch which typically requires a 2nd layer of non cxl to be glued & stitched to it. Overall I prefer a simple single piece belt, partially because of the aesthetics of the stitching

I've found the stretch is not an issue if the maker takes that into consideration. If done properly, it ends up being just like a new pair of raw denims; you start off snug (or one belt hole beyond where you want to be) and then the fit is perfect after a week or two of daily-ish wear.

For example, I started off at the second hole from the end on my CXL belt (pics in this thread). After a week to ten days tops, I moved to the third hole (middle of five), and it fit perfectly. Which is exactly what the guy who made the belt said would happen. He factors in the stretch of the leather when you give him your sizing info.

[gaseousclay]

Oct 22, 2014 9:14:20 GMT -6 @david said:

gaseousclay said:

I agree that full grain leather will last forever. My preference is for CXL leather, but a lot of people like bridle leather for its toughness. The reason I like CXL is that because of how it's treated, it's prone to scratching and other signs of wear and it shows. a lot of people dislike CXL for this reason, but for belts it's perfect. My Rancourt belt is nice and scratched up from daily use and it'll only get better.

The only thing I don't like about cxl belts is the stretch which typically requires a 2nd layer of non cxl to be glued & stitched to it. Overall I prefer a simple single piece belt, partially because of the aesthetics of the stitching

I like the stitching personally. The other thing I like about Rancourt, besides cost, quality and variety, is they'll also do custom belt. The downside to custom belts is there's a $35-40 upcharge for this service. I tried to commission a custom CXL belt awhile back but it fell through the cracks. I originally wanted a 1.5" belt in navy CXL or a black lined CXL belt with white contrast stitching.

[crabrangoon]

I have the Tanner Goods "standard belt" in saddle, and can't imagine needing to replace it for many many years. It's listed as 10-11oz, but mine is 2 or 3 years old now and specs may have changed. It's about as thick as my iPhone 5, nearly as thick as a number 2 pencil. It's nowhere near the same tone as the original saddle finish, and has become much warmer/darker with wear. Sweat stains make it look a gross, but it's got hundreds of miles of hiking "under it's belt" and much of that is in the heat of our Texas Summer so no avoiding that. I've got a black one as well, but hardly wear it as much and it obviously doesn't photograph nearly as well.

Here's some snaps of mine I just took, click any picture to see larger/zoomed copy:



Worn with IndigoxPersimmons & Sky Blue slubby-nep above.

[Derek G]

nice...not gross at all, that's character!

[joe24]

Anyone know of a place where I can get a black belt buckle Similar to the black roller from Gustin?
I saw one on tanner goods but with the added shipping cost the price will jump to about $20.

[gaseousclay]

Nov 20, 2014 17:09:08 GMT -6 joe24 said:

Anyone know of a place where I can get a black belt buckle Similar to the black roller from Gustin?
I saw one on tanner goods but with the added shipping cost the price will jump to about $20.

Rancourt has an unlined 1.5" black CXL belt with roller buckle for $99. Not sure if the color of the buckle matters but Rancourt's belts are top quality

[joe24]

Nov 21, 2014 7:04:28 GMT -6 gaseousclay said:

Nov 20, 2014 17:09:08 GMT -6 joe24 said:

Anyone know of a place where I can get a black belt buckle Similar to the black roller from Gustin?
I saw one on tanner goods but with the added shipping cost the price will jump to about $20.

Rancourt has an unlined 1.5" black CXL belt with roller buckle for $99. Not sure if the color of the buckle matters but Rancourt's belts are top quality

Thanks but I'm just looking specifically for the buckle. I have the belt already.

[gaseousclay]

just received my order for a tan English bridle leather belt from Orion Leather, but had to pack it right back up and return it because I sized incorrectly. b@lls

[northcoast]

I find myself preferring the 1 1/4 size and not the super thick variety. Some pliability is nice.

I have a double hook that I am very fond of and am contemplating a double ring variety.

These are very cool as well.

www.billykirk.com/products/no-150-claw-buckle-belt-brown

[crabrangoon]

Kinda forgot all about this thread. I've since moved on from the leather belts and finally found a webbing belt that I absolutely LOVE.
Costly (until sales) but very high quality, strangely very light weight and seriously the only nylon belt I've ever cared for. I hope to find a black one some day.
www.bbclothing.co.uk/en-gb/stone-island-olive-green-woven-belt-si6581592176054.html

[Deleted]

I've gotten three from Equus and couldn't be happier. Made to order. Superior in every way to any other belt that I have. They will send leather and thread samples for free. Eventually I'll get another.

[p0rkbelly]

Oct 21, 2014 17:53:52 GMT -6 kkozel said:

This did pretty well too on kickstarter
The buckle is attached with Chicago screws -- which is the cheapest/easiest way to attach a buckle. Rivets (that don't come undone), or stitching is preferred. I've had several screws fall out from Gustin belts into public urinals (not specific to Gusitn) and now I go for Riveted or Stitched belts.

[exophobe]

Thread is the cheapest way, then rivets, and chicago screws are the most expensive of those fastener types, and the rivet is typically the strongest. The labor difference is negligible, but rivet would be fastest, followed by chicago screw, and thread likely taking the longest (obviously depending on how you do it).

[Deleted]

Thread, rivets, screws, all inexpensive compared to labor. I have one G belt. Won't buy another.

[bentin]

Nov 30, 2015 21:07:37 GMT -6 @61scout said:

Thread, rivets, screws, all inexpensive compared to labor. I have one G belt. Won't buy another.

Same. Have one Marshdown, will definitely buy more.

[exophobe]

Nov 30, 2015 21:07:37 GMT -6 @61scout said:

Thread, rivets, screws, all inexpensive compared to labor. I have one G belt. Won't buy another.

I meant difference in labor is negligible, not that it cost less than the hardware.

[Deleted]

Wouldn't the cost of stitching be the highest? The only reason to use Chicago screws is to change out the buckle. The only reason to use rivers is cost. I see very few heavy leather belts with stitching. The thicker the leather the harder it would be to stitch.

[wdw]

My three pretty thick Equus belts are all stitched, and I have to say I think it looks better.