Ande Whall

[bugula]

Ande Whall
I've been hesitant to mention this brand but I just received my second pair today in a different style than my first and have to share the joy with you guys. Ande's a one-man brand in New Zealand and he cranks out jeans and jackets with all of the details some of you go crazy over. He offers his jeans in four different styles so there should be something for everyone and his prices include EMS shipping worldwide.

He's got a great section on his site that shows his process: andewhall.bigcartel.com/making-jeans

Some details from the standard 13.5oz on his site:

• Raw selvage denim
• Denim from Okayama Japan
• 13.5oz sanforized
• Super dark indigo
• Red selvage line
• Heavy weight gold/lemon stitching
• Poly-core cotton wrap thread
• Short slub weave
• Cotton from Zimbabwe
• X-bar tacked back pockets
• Leather waistband patch

He also releases Special Roll pairs every so often which are limited and feature unique denim. I've got his SR11 which was a left-hand twill and they're miraculous. Check out the archive of SR releases: andewhall.bigcartel.com/special-roll-archive

Going through his photos you can see the details and quality of craftsmanship - just spectacular work (I'll throw a few photos below to give some flavor to the thread but go through the links above to see the eye candy).

I've got the SR11 in a Mustang fit and a pair of the 13.5oz currently on his site in a Caribou fit. Both fit my cycle thighs and have a great taper. That's the thing that I love about his patterns - the taper is perfect for me and creates a flattering silhouette. I think I'm leaning towards the Mustang being the fit for me because of its lower rise but both fit equally well and I get excited to put the SR11 on when it's their turn in the rotation. He also has skinny and relaxed fits as well:



The SR11




I typically like my back pockets a little...less adorned but the lemon vs. copper stitching adds a nice effect and truthfully, I'm untucked so it's mostly covered - a seam ripper could quickly rid them if desired.

Just wanted to shed some light on this smaller producer. Let me know if you have any questions about the two styles I mentioned.

[stapletron]

The construction pics are very cool. His stuff seems to get high marks from just about everyone.

[bugula]

Yep, they're honestly the most well made denim I own. Impeccable craftsmanship and simply just all around quality.

[unnamed]

Awesome bugula! Thanks for sharing.

[blacktower]

Good brand. With all due respect to the Gustin's and Lawless' of the market, brands such as Ande Whall are leagues ahead on every front, from the craftsmanship to the patterns/cuts. You can tell Ande Whall is committed to the craft, and although they are more expensive than a pair of G's you get so much more. The Caribou is very tempting.

[youwinatlife]

ande seems like a completely awesome denim craftsman. he is based in christchurch, new zealand, which was hammered by an earthquake in 2011 (small earthquakes seem a regular occurrence there) which destroyed his workshop and most if not all of his work.

his jeans look incredible, those Special Rolls are just - just so good looking. but such pricey jeans. for all y'all in USA or anywhere, the NZD conversion rate must be so so super sweet. but as an australian, it really makes the more expensive numbers quite out of reach - $200USD is over $260 australian. and i got my hopes up on rakuten yesterday when i thought i could score some iron heart ducks for $150, but realised it was set to USD and was gonna actually cost me a chunky $210 in domestic currency, an amount that i literally can't even.

aaaanyway, all of that to say, enjoy your AW's you fancy pants foreigners.

[bugula]

limited edition 21oz jacket just announced:

andewhall.bigcartel.com/product/grizzly-21oz-special

[bugula]

all black styles/fits on sale for $200 shipped (black w/ white weft and all black tonal - four fits each). get on it.

[bugula]

SR12 released:

[exophobe]

Jul 28, 2015 15:55:02 GMT -6 bugula said:

SR12 released:

Are you allowed to walk around with the pocket-bags hanging out in polite society? Those look amazing.

[bugula]

Jul 28, 2015 16:04:45 GMT -6 exophobe said:

Jul 28, 2015 15:55:02 GMT -6 bugula said:

SR12 released:

Are you allowed to walk around with the pocket-bags hanging out in polite society? Those look amazing.

hahaha - will let you know.

i'm excited about the shovel design rear pockets too. ah the details...

been wearing the hell outta my SR11s recently. really can't recommend this brand enough...if price is a deterrent, just remember he's in NZ and EMS shipping is included in the price.

[variable]

You are my enabling muse.

[whiskeyriver]

He doesn't chain stitch the hem?

[exophobe]

Jul 28, 2015 22:14:28 GMT -6 whiskeyriver said:

He doesn't chain stitch the hem?

Doesn't look like it. A lot of people indicate the chain stitch is what leads to the roping on the hem, he seems to indicate that it's achieved by pulling the rolled cuff over to put it at an angle. I don't know which is correct, though the angled seam seems more logical given the effect.

[bugula]

[bugula]

just want to give Ande some more love here. been wearing the SR12s for a couple weeks now and the denim's getting some cool streakiness going. really think that the Mustang is my favorite fit across all companies right now. there are only 6 or 7 SR12s left so if you're tempted by 'em, now's the time.

will get some pics together this weekend...

[gaseousclay]

his stuff looks good. I especially like the pics he's posted detailing the step-by-step process in making a pair of jeans.

[whiskeyriver]

Just still bugs me that he doesn't chain stitch.

[gaseousclay]

is the chainstitch something you only see in the hem, or is it usually throughout the entire pair?

[whiskeyriver]

Sept 4, 2015 14:28:56 GMT -6 gaseousclay said:

is the chainstitch something you only see in the hem, or is it usually throughout the entire pair?

Usually just the hem. Whall doesn't do it there, either.

[bugula]

not sure why it matters but to each their own...

[whiskeyriver]

Sept 4, 2015 15:32:59 GMT -6 bugula said:

not sure why it matters but to each their own...

Oh, it's definitely a personal thing. It's just more authentic and I like the roping it causes on the hem area. Lock stitching is definitely a little stronger. It's also a lot cheaper to do.


True, it doesn't "matter" if someone likes the denim and craftsmanship. It wouldn't alone keep me from buying stuff from him. I just wish he'd do it.

[bugula]

~3wks in on the SR12...



some really pronounced vertical falling is starting to come out. it wasn't apparent when i first got 'em...not sure how much justice the photo does:





can see it coming in behind the knee too:

[whiskeyriver]

It does justice. Those look good man. I can definitely see the vertical fading. Very nice.

[bugula]

if anyone has been on the fence about picking up a pair from ande, his latest SR release is out and it has tonal stitching which may sway you wing haters...

andewhall.bigcartel.com/new-sr13