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Post by exophobe on Apr 1, 2015 21:17:55 GMT -6
I like the oil field type B. Wonder if they could add a left pocket? The single pocket is less useful and looks symmetrically imbalanced to me. just order the 18oz chinos with the back cinch, articulated knees. |
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Post by Deleted on Apr 2, 2015 8:43:24 GMT -6
i received my 12 oz re-made chinos recently and am very happy. ciano was great to work with through the process and accommodating of any issues. he ended up making 3 pairs for me to get them right. the first came in with sizing different from what i ordered. the 2nd pair came according to what i ordered, but the fit wasn't very good. he insisted that they try again and he'd work until i got a pair that worked.
also...while he was making this pair he hemmed up a pair of gustin jeans for me and shipped those back along with my chinos. all in all great service and a great pair of pants.
and to think he was able to get me 3 pair of pants and hem another pair in a fraction of the time it has taken LD to ship my first order.
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Post by Deleted on Apr 2, 2015 18:50:58 GMT -6
I like the oil field type B. Wonder if they could add a left pocket? The single pocket is less useful and looks symmetrically imbalanced to me. just order the 18oz chinos with the back cinch, articulated knees. I ordered exactly these pants and am looking forward to them. |
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Post by brentkuz on Apr 2, 2015 19:40:39 GMT -6
As soon as I nail down fit I will prob get a work pair of double thick knee 12oz.
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Post by exophobe on Apr 4, 2015 14:13:23 GMT -6
My five pocket 12oz ochre canvas came in on Thursday, and I wore them all day Friday. This is a great pair of jeans, though I made the weird choice of putting the corozo buttons on them when I ordered. It's not bad, but any means, but I think I got confused when ordering, for some reason. I do worry they will inevitably fall off due to the stress put on them, but as I lose my 2015 ten (have gained about 8 pounds since the beginning of the year, from laziness not from getting swole, brah) maybe I'll be more gentle on them.
To compare, I ordered a 901 in 32 waist from Ciano, and my typical Gustin size is a 33 slim. The 901 fit (definitely very close to the Levi's 511 fit, as indicated) is a bit more slim than the Gustin, and I will size up one tag size next time when I order them in the chino cut (maybe two since I'll totally be getting the cinch-back) -- I like Chinos to fit differently than jeans. The rise ends up slightly higher than the Gustin slim, though I consider this a good thing and the leg is definitely slimmer all the way down. Comparing the fit guides, it also looks like my 33 slims from Gustin have been coming in over spec lately (though they'll likely be spot-on after a wash). Since I was also finding that the fit guides from Ciano and Gustin actually indicate that the Gustin fit should be tighter, I took a fabric tape to them and the Ciano are bang on spec for the pre-wash numbers on the 901 fit guide (though when you measure the waist the Gustin way, you'll find it comes up an inch short of the fit guide number, just like Lawless, I'm starting to think this is a pretty standard way to convert from Gustin size to true waist size). In other words, the Ciano measures 17 when laid plat and measured the Gustin way, just like a Lawless 35.
My only complaints, really: 1. It was silly of me to choose Corozo buttons. 2. I'm not a fan of the chain-stitch on the pockets and would prefer a simple lockstitch for the smoother finish -- though it helps me to keep my hands out of my pockets.
I love the ochre color, and I love the fabric. I can't wait to order more from Ciano. Just an FYI for you business guys, though, the 12oz canvas looks far more Carhartt than Business Casual (as expected), so be forewarned if you work in an office that would take offense.
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Post by brentkuz on Apr 4, 2015 15:11:48 GMT -6
Yeah I ragret the corozo buttons for the ducks. Back pockets one thing but oh well.
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Post by Mowgli on Apr 4, 2015 15:35:25 GMT -6
I have the corozo buttons too.. Just curious, what is the issue with having them on the front and the fly?
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Post by brentkuz on Apr 4, 2015 15:54:59 GMT -6
I have the corozo buttons too.. Just curious, what is the issue with having them on the front and the fly? In theory they are weaker than a shank type normal button fly button like G, IH levis etc. The string that anchors the buttons it the weak point. The buttons are sweet but since it's such a heavy weight duck canvas it probably will be putting a lot of stress on the button string. |
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Post by exophobe on Apr 4, 2015 16:00:07 GMT -6
Yeah I ragret the corozo buttons for the ducks. Back pockets one thing but oh well. I also did the jeans style, so ... not the best choice. The great news is that when my choice actually becomes an issue, I can pay shipping and Ciano will replace them. I will do the corozo on the chino cut, though, cause I won't be sizing them for some stretch. Regret nothing, enjoy your clothes-journey. |
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Post by exophobe on Apr 4, 2015 16:36:23 GMT -6
In theory they are weaker than a shank type normal button fly button like G, IH levis etc. The string that anchors the buttons it the weak point. The buttons are sweet but since it's such a heavy weight duck canvas it probably will be putting a lot of stress on the button string. Exactly. I like them in theory, but given how I usually do a button fly, as the fabric starts to break in all the stress of fastening and unfastening the buttons is put on the string, and they don't have the lateral stability of a metal shank button so I don't anticipate they'll stay on the pants as long as the alternative would. If you sized them so that they're looser in the waist and not putting constant stress on that thread, I don't think you'd see any trouble for some time -- and if you did, you can certainly sew them back on (unless it drops in an unfortunate place, such as into a toilet, and you opt not to retrieve it). It's not a judgement of the way they're sewn on or anything, it's just a lot of use. You'll typically button your shirt once and then unbutton at the end of the day whereas you end up unbuttoning pants several times throughout the day. |
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Post by brentkuz on Apr 4, 2015 17:22:46 GMT -6
Forgive me for my lack of proper terminology but I wonder if Ciano could build the base/stalk of the thread to strengthen it. Think navy Peacoats. They build up a stalk of threads to keep it up a bit. I wonder.
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Post by exophobe on Apr 4, 2015 17:52:09 GMT -6
Forgive me for my lack of proper terminology but I wonder if Ciano could build the base/stalk of the thread to strengthen it. Think navy Peacoats. They build up a stalk of threads to keep it up a bit. I wonder. I think they're gonna last a while, and like I said, it's likely my sizing of the jeans that'll do the buttons in, not their attachment. The corozo are two-hole buttons, but they're sewn on fine. I've already emailed with Ciano and he says he'll replace them if I ship them to him, so I just want to be sure that it's clear this is not a mistake or oversight on his part, rather a poor choice based on the sizing I elected. They're gonna be around for a long darn time, this is what I was hoping for when I asked the world of American semi-custom clothing to make some canvas pants last year, so I'm totally happy about these. |
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Post by Deleted on Apr 5, 2015 15:00:36 GMT -6
Guys, this is just my thought and my thought alone, but it'd go a long ways for Ciano if repairs were sent back and we paid for the postage. I know they are getting hit really hard with shipping costs on their end..
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Post by exophobe on Apr 5, 2015 18:12:07 GMT -6
Guys, this is just my thought and my thought alone, but it'd go a long ways for Ciano if repairs were sent back and we paid for the postage. I know they are getting hit really hard with shipping costs on their end.. That's my understanding of how it works. If I need repairs I pay for the shipping but I don't have to pay for new pants. |
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Post by Deleted on Apr 5, 2015 19:25:36 GMT -6
Guys, this is just my thought and my thought alone, but it'd go a long ways for Ciano if repairs were sent back and we paid for the postage. I know they are getting hit really hard with shipping costs on their end.. That's my understanding of how it works. If I need repairs I pay for the shipping but I don't have to pay for new pants. Correct. I think Ciano offered free shipping and returns, for alternations, remakes, etc etc, but just think about how much it costs to ship something. They pay $10+ for most packages, in the US. A few exchanges back and forth and they spend 40-50$ on shipping alone Just some food for thought. |
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Post by wdw on Apr 5, 2015 19:37:01 GMT -6
Yeah, for the rebuild of my jeans following the pocket issue, Ciano was going to send them overseas to me at his cost ($31), but I said I'd cover that. It was only fair.
IMHO, the guy's doing a good, solid, low-key job and deserves support.
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Post by Winterland on Apr 7, 2015 18:24:43 GMT -6
I think I am going to make the Ciano plunge. I am looking at the 18oz black Duck 5 pocket. Working out details on sizing with Ciano now as the 2 sizing styles they have don't seem to work for me. One seems very low rise and the other too loose of a fit. Looking at more of a medium rise slim fit. I suggested that maybe they add a midrise as it seems others are looking for this sizing also. Does anyone else have the black? Would love to see pics. Not sure of what type of stitching to go for. Tonal/contrast? cianofarmer.com/Store/18ozBlackDuckCanvasJean.html  |
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Post by seth on Apr 7, 2015 18:36:02 GMT -6
"... One seems very low rise and the other too loose of a fit. Looking at more of a medium rise slim fit. I suggested that maybe they add a midrise as it seems others are looking for this sizing also..." Exactly my feelings and what's kept me from jumping in too. Let us know what you work out. Maybe I could use it as guidance for my order. |
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Post by brentkuz on Apr 7, 2015 19:06:42 GMT -6
@winterland - if I can give my advice get the 905 straight fit and have Ciano tailor the leg more. The 901 is a real low rise with small thighs. I'm a 36slim in G but Ciano 34 slim was not even close to working. Very slim and low rise top block.
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Post by metals37 on Apr 7, 2015 20:03:51 GMT -6
@winterland - I have had similar concerns with the low low rise, but the rest of the fit on the 901's is more to my liking. I've been working with Ciano to figure out how to adjust the fit as well. Ciano seems to be great at listening to advice from this group and adjusting accordingly (see back jean pockets), so maybe based on all this feedback, a 'mid-rise' will come?
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Post by exophobe on Apr 8, 2015 20:41:34 GMT -6
Here's some poorly composed pictures of my 12oz Ochre Duck Canvas five pocket from Ciano.   Detail of the hand-hammered copper rivets:  Some inside finishing detail, note the hidden rivets (miss ya rex).  The first and the last are probably the closest to accurate color representation. |
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Post by metals37 on Apr 8, 2015 20:49:49 GMT -6
Here's some poorly composed pictures of my 12oz Ochre Duck Canvas five pocket from Ciano. Detail of the hand-hammered copper rivets: Some inside finishing detail, note the hidden rivets (miss ya rex). The first and the last are probably the closest to accurate color representation. What color stitching is that? They look great. All the pictures people have posted of Ciano's work show what detail he puts into his stuff. I'm itching to get mine.... |
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Post by exophobe on Apr 8, 2015 21:00:37 GMT -6
What color stitching is that? They look great. All the pictures people have posted of Ciano's work show what detail he puts into his stuff. I'm itching to get mine.... Brown thread on the outside, the inside stitching is orange, this is a standard detail -- the backside of all the chain stitch is that same orange. I love orange, so I love that detail. I think all the button holes and bartacks are in copper, I don't know if you can request this be a different color, but I think that the Ochre with copper thread would be pretty great looking if you're trying to be a little more subtle, and if I order the same color in a Chino cut will likely go that route. There's some green he's got that I'm eyeing first, though. |
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Post by metals37 on Apr 8, 2015 21:20:19 GMT -6
What color stitching is that? They look great. All the pictures people have posted of Ciano's work show what detail he puts into his stuff. I'm itching to get mine.... Brown thread on the outside, the inside stitching is orange, this is a standard detail -- the backside of all the chain stitch is that same orange. I love orange, so I love that detail. I think all the button holes and bartacks are in copper, I don't know if you can request this be a different color, but I think that the Ochre with copper thread would be pretty great looking if you're trying to be a little more subtle, and if I order the same color in a Chino cut will likely go that route. There's some green he's got that I'm eyeing first, though. Yeah, my thoughts have been tonal stitching for the chino and contrast for a five pocket. |
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Post by brentkuz on Apr 9, 2015 3:51:53 GMT -6
Look awesome man!
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